Man that is awesome

I hear so many pre 01 A4's dynoing 280-290 stock that I pretty much consider anything in the 300's very good for any LS1 intake A4. I haven't gotten mine dynoed but I can just tell it would have been one of those 285 RWHP cars. One of the BS downsides to getting an Automatic I guess.

Nice numbers on your 2000

 

Actually, this is wrong. It really would be 400 (if 20% was the powertrain loss). The correct math is:
CrankHP - (CrankHP * 0.20) = RWHP, which can be expressed as:
CrankHP * 0.80 = RWHP, which can be expressed as:
RWHP / 0.80 = CrankHP, which can be expressed as:
RWHP * 1.0/0.80 = CrankHP, which can be expressed as:
RWHP * 1.25 = Crank HP

 

A Convertor with a high stall will liven that automatic right up for you.

 

I find it extremely hard to believe.

I have yet to dyno the TA , but my 99 Z A4 with cat back and K&N filter replacement only dynoed 303.9 rwhp.

Now if you had a M6 then I could believe it a little easier.
I have a younger friend that took his fathers M6 Z to the dyno and completely bone stock pulled 317.4 at the wheels.

Im not calling you a lier , but just trying to understand.

scan us in a dyno sheet and it will erase any sketicism and help us answer your question.

 

Lol, let me try and find it in the pile of abyss that is my garage. It was done in march when I bought the car and it was quite chilly outside if that helps. Regardless, it doesn't matter to me if you believe me. You believe me? Great. Don't believe me? That's great to.

Not my fault mine came from the factory strong...

 

Schismblade,

I was talking to the thread starter, not you.

That is extremely strong numbers your pulling too. Try to find the slip , but dont kill yourself in your garage

I am just curious to what torque your making with the hp numbers.



Later

Mike

 

Some people here need to do some refreshing when it comes to math...

 

Heh, now I feel like an ***.:blah:

 

thanks for the feedback. like i said i beat those cars by atleast 3 car lengths (but i can thank the nittos for alot of that). if you want a copy of the dyno sheet i can email it to you, unless someone can show/tell me how to put it on this thread. and the exhaust was not factory i had to put it on and the k&n was the lid and filter thats it. So im leaning toward the factory freak, and just to update my power steering just died, belts are fine, fluid is fine, and its raining now, so i have to wait untill 2morro to figure it out.

 

also i would love to put a stall covertor on but it dont trust my tranny. with or without a cooler on it.

 

So, cutting through the vague descriptions, it appears SLPSSLS1 has a lid, filter, and cat-back. He's added 20-25 rwhp with those mods, so the car was probably at 295-300 rwhp when it was stock. That's not a big surprise.

Yeah, seriously. You guys are silly. Let's use your method to find engine hp and then once again find rwhp: 320*1.2=384; 384*.80=307.2...hey! We lost 13 hp!

It's not a 20% (or whatever) loss of rear wheel horsepower...it's a 20% (or whatever) loss of engine horsepower.

Engine hp *.80 = rwhp, so rwhp/.80 = engine hp.

 

SLPSSLS1,

Email it to me at HMARTIN9@carolina.rr.com and I will be glad to post it for you.

Later

Mike

 

Chris and Shane...I stopped my work to check your math...well I stand corrected. BTW I resent that silly remark!

 

Who cares what stupid formula you use to show how much crank HP you have? Who cares how much speculated HP you picked up from a POS FIPK?

What do you run in the 1/4? You could have 400rwhp but run a 13.5 and most people wouldn't be impressed.

 

304.9 RWHP 322.7 RWTQ with just a GMMG catback
2900 miles on the car
It's an A4 with a stock converter so has some nasty dead spots but sometimes when spurred the sucker moves out nicely