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cam and springs install

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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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cam and springs install

How much labor should be for this? I was thinking just a cam, but i thought that b/c I have 98,000 miles springs should also be done eventhough I think the labor will go over I want to spend right now. I do want to go w/ the biggest cam for a daily and auto w/ the mods in sig, any seggestions? PLEASE?! I dont mind the lope or sound, want the bang for buck w/ this.
Old Dec 2, 2006 | 08:31 AM
  #2  
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You have to do springs with any cam swap and you should do pushrods too.
Old Dec 2, 2006 | 11:30 AM
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Agreed.

The stock springs won't really support anything besides the stock cam.

Like Al said: Springs and pushrods are a must. However, I'd also go with a titanium retainer and with that many miles on the engine, you'll probably want to go with lifters as well (Melling OEM replacement are fine and inexpensive)

Mike
Old Dec 2, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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What about the install(hours) to do this?
Old Dec 2, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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If you're an A4, get a converter first. I'm assuming you are since you have 3.73's. It'll cost you less than a cam, spring and install and make your car quicker. This alone should put you well into the 12's.

There is an additional costs you haven't thought of. You say you want a large cam but you will also need a tune. Especially with an A4. If my assumption about you being A4 isn't correct, you'll be needing a clutch pretty soon.

Also realize that the "biggest cam" may not be what you really want. The difference in street manners between what you're used with a stock cam and say an MS4 or TRex would be something you may not want. Thre are people running them and larger in dailr driver but I know I wouldn't care to live with the biggest cam I can run. The biggest cam you want in a daily driver is subjective. Every person has different limits.

Think this through carefully or be one of those guys with a big cam getting beat by guys with baby cams or just bolt on cars and then wondering whats wrong. Bigger doesn't always mean better.

If you're unwilling to learn about cams and make up your own mind then just get a 224 grind on a 114 LSA.

Last edited by Greed4Speed; Dec 2, 2006 at 10:43 PM.
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 11:30 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 1stls1
What about the install(hours) to do this?
You're looking at around $600-700 labor for the entire installation.
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 09:18 PM
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Thanks Kraest, im assuming that is for the cam and springs? I would like to do the conv, but I dont want to sacrifice my rolling runs on the run. I know it is grat from a stand still, but you loose power if you take of when going from a roll. If thats the case, I'll just do the cam and springs.
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 08:56 AM
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That's labor for cam/springs/pushrods/retainers.

Mike
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 11:43 AM
  #9  
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Thats expensive. I was lazy and had my cam, springs, PR, timing chain,and LS6 intake installed and it wasn't that much. Closer to $400.
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 09:27 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 1stls1
Thanks Kraest, im assuming that is for the cam and springs? I would like to do the conv, but I dont want to sacrifice my rolling runs on the run. I know it is grat from a stand still, but you loose power if you take of when going from a roll. If thats the case, I'll just do the cam and springs.
You are so wrong. A car with the right converter will totally waste a stock converter car from a roll.
There are several speeds at which you can go WOT with a stock converter and the car will bog until it gets into the powerband. A car with a properly matched converter will always be in the powerband at WOT.
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AL SS590 M6
You are so wrong. A car with the right converter will totally waste a stock converter car from a roll.

Ditto
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