Are the bolt-in style SFC's difficult to bolt in? Does it require going thru the floorboard? or does it bolt to the underside only (frame rails, etc?)???

Thanks everyone!
Daryl

 

This link should answer all your questions http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm , if you need something explained e-mail me your phone # and I'll give you a call.

Al

 

Thanks very much, Al. That oughta do it! BTW, they just arrived via UPS about 10 minutes ago.

Daryl

 

Glad to help, like I said if you need any help e-mail me your #.

 

Post your results once you get them on and tested. I am stuck bewteen deciding which sub-frames to go with, there are so many!

 

I went with the DMS (Dynamic MotorSports) tubular weld-in SFC's and their 1.25" lowering springs. I measured and photographed the ride height with the stock set up.

Rear: 28" from ground to the top of the wheel well, with a 3.75" gap between the top of the tire and the top of the wheel well.

Front: 27.75" from ground to top of wheel well, with a 3.50" gap between the top of the tire and the top of the wheel well.

Once I get the springs installed, I'll let everyone know. Whomever is interested can E-mail me and I'll send them digital photo's of the BEFORE & AFTER.

I'll try to get in there during the SFC install while the car is up on the lift to get close-up pix of the install (welding points, mod's, etc)... but no guarantee at this point that they'll let me under there due to insurance regulations, safety, etc...

Daryl

 

After you get them bolted in take the car somewhere and have them welded in place, bolt ins are never as strong as weld ins, and I have heard that over time the body still flexes and it stretches the holes that the bolts run through. I have my KB's fully welded on both cars. No flexing there

 

If installed correctly there's no need for that, the first set of SLP bolt-on SFC we installed were on a friends SS....with more then 20K miles on them there as tight as the day we installed them.

 

True!!! If bolt-in SFC's are installed properly, they are just as good as weld-in styles. The only cons or bolt-in are that the bolts can come loose, and they are mighty expensive. the pros are the lack of an install price, and they can be removed whenever desired.

 

Well, I went with the DMS tubular weld-in SFC's. Had them installed today, along with DMS' lowering springs (1.25" propised drop X 4). I kept the stock shock absorbers, and for my tastes, am glad I did (Bilstein's are nice, but probably too rough for the ride quality I want; and adjustables... I'd never adjust, let's face it!). Besides, I went the F&F rice-rocket tight suspension route before with an Acura and REFUSE to go there again! Anyway, I absolutely LOVE the stance and ride of the car now. Feels so much more rigid but not rough. The springs give a nice stance/attitude; the SFC's make the body feel like it's locked on rails.

Effect on ride height & clearance:

Fronts: went from a ride height of 27.75" (ground to top of wheel well) to 26.5"; gap b/t top of tire and top of wheel well went from 3.5" stock to 2" with the DMS lowering springs.

Rear: went from a ride height of 28" to 26.5"; gap b/t top of tire and top of wheel went from 3.5" stock to 2.25" with the DMS lowering springs

If anyone would like to see pix, E-mail me and I'll send them to you.

Thanks to everyone for their input... I'm VERY pleased with the SFC's for my level of driving (very moderately aggressive with occasional bouts of insanity!)

Daryl