We run lock-up torque converters. Milage in town will go down only slightly- but cruise will remain unaffected.

More stress on the drivetrain? Yeah, that's because torque output has been increased, and I'm pretty sure that's what most people who read this forum are desiring.

Most people certainly stall their DDs. The LS1 likes a lot of stall speed to make up for the soggy bottom end.

Ben T.

 

What the heck are you talking about???? Have you ever looked at a dyno graph of a stock or near stock LS1??? Look one up and really look at it without looking at just the peak numbers.
An LS1 motor makes just as much or more torque at any and all rpm ranges as any previous SBC except maybe the TPI 350. It's just that they build power so smoothly that the impression is less low end torque. It's not true.

 

Hey, you should use more question marks. It'll make your point stronger!

He's right, though. LS1 has plenty of low-end torque. Short of a big block or a diesel, there aren't many engines that beat it.

 

Then why does a 4,000 rpm stall converter knock .5 seconds off a stock car?

Ben T.

 

I'm not saying that an LS1 is a joke off idle to 3500, but in comparsion to how well they pull at 4000/higher, they bottom end is not as impressive (i.e., "soggy"). I wasn't comparing 0-2000 RPM between an LS1 and a TBI motor, I was comparing off idle performance to midrange and up performance.

I know my (bolt-on) car really starts to wake up ~3500 rpm. There's a reason why stalls work so well in these cars. That's to get them to a point in their operation range where they're making more power and less "soggy".


Ben T.

 

Let's just all say the LS1 has so much low end power the tires just spin (even on the dyno) so it doesn't feel fast, until it hooks

end of discussion

(IT WAS TOUCHED BY FRIGGIN GOD FFS)

 

The stock stall is 1800 rpm's with a 1.6 STR. Here is a LS1 dyno for a car with just lid and catback.

[/QUOTE]

You'll notice the torque at 1800 rpm's is about 290. At 3500 rpm's (a very popular DD stall size) the torque is near its max at just under 320. Most 3500 stalls are also in the 2.2-2.5 STR range. So by jumping to a 3500 stall you accomplish 2 things. One you jump to near max torque (better powerband) and two you launch harder which will lower your 60 foot time. This is why .4 to .7 is considered in the "normal" range for ET gains for a 3000-4000 stall converter on a stock or near stock car.

If you really want to wake up the car but still be on the "mild" side then I suggest a 3000 stall (TCI, Fuddle or Yank) and a 224/224 114 LSA cam.

If you want to really wake up the car and be a tad more "aggressive" yet remain relatively streetable then I suggest a 3500 stall with a FM13 (futural mororsports) cam. The cam specs are 230/232 114 LSA. With a good tune this cam has made very impressive numbers while not being over the top.

Good luck with whatever you end up doing.

 

I put a 224/228 581/588 114 LSA in my car.

Dude, this car idles good and traps an average of 119 at the track.

With only LS6 intake,Subframe connectors,exhaust,headers and a Mail order tune. Running 11's are cake and the car runs 12.2 easy on street tires.

The cam amazes me.

 

Forgot to mention it idles great. Even with the stock tune running thrue mufflers the cam sounds small.

 

who made that cam?

 

Comp cam.

 

that is a really good trap speed for that cam it seems like... i can imagine what it would be like on some ET streets and a dyno tune

 

On a stock tune and a stock LS1 intake I was trapping 113-114. The tune made a Huge difference. So did the Sub frame connectors and intake.
Im pleased with the cam.