...can we get back to the TOPIC OF THE THREAD please.

 

Please read all previous posts before posting something like that. The guy wanted to know if it was worth while to do the ls6 swap because he lives in Japan and some of his options and knowledge is very limited. Hes also a new member and we're trying to make sure he knows what his options are. All of this is relevant to his thread. (with the exception of the kraest's vette )

so now, cabell can we get BACK ON TOPIC?

 

Yeah, thats what I meant, lets get back to the topic of not another thread about a handheld programmer vs. mailorder tune. I know he is in Japan and has limited tuning availability, and it is somewhat relevant, but arguing about it does no one any good. And to you Ghost, I did read the entire thread, and thats why I posted, because the last five posts added nothing to the information content of the thread. I know both Teke and Al know a lot, and I am not trying to offend anyone, but I just wanted to get the thread back on track, because I am interested in the pros and cons of the LS6 kit vs another h/c package as well.

BTW, you posting that descreening your MAF is a good idea is a personal opinion, there are many people who have received negative results, so I wouldn't descreen the MAF nor would I tell anyone else to do it, so if you are just trying to help a newbie out and let him know all of his options, you should tell him that descreening the MAF has given good and bad results...now by all means, lets get back to the topic...its listed at the top of each post (just in case you didn't know )

 

Orrrrrrrrrrrrrr...... $550 for a year's supply of dynotunes! More horsepower than any handheld or pre-programmed unit and unlimited tuning for a year.

Mike = 1
teke = 0
Al = 0





Mike

 

hahaha... depending on where you're at. There's only one dyno where i'm at and he charges $250/hr with a 2hr min charge (see... this is why competition is good). That's just for ONE session and if you want any tuning done, that costs extra. For some people, the Predator is the solution.

 

Where did Z28XTC go?

 

I'm actually thinking of doing this.. a ls1 to ls6 conversion...

Basically, I'm not equipped with tools or knowledge or space to figure out where the other half of my #8 intake pushrod is, nor deal with whatelse could be wrong no..

Soo, I'm planning ot take it toa shop ...but labor is so expensive, at this point, it sounds better to just drop the engine and replace it with a ls6 longblock?

http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=73133

instead of burning the clock on taking the current engine appart, and probably finding more wrong with it (and knowing its previous life, probably some serious damage) I don't have much faith in the entire current engine right now. thinking in the long run, better to just replace the whole engine.

 

$5730 for that or you can get a sturdy LS1 short block for $3000, pick the ported heads and cam that you want, add in the gaskets and hardware and get 60 to 100 extra hp for the same money. And still take the stuff to a shop and say put it together.

 

Much more fun to buy a forged 402 cube LS2 shortblock for under $4000, then throw on a set of Dart heads, a nice little cam, and LS6 intake manifold for roughly the same price, but make at least 150 more horsepower.

Mike

 

Check out this thread:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=444099

It originally started off as a question about an LS7 swap, but then later switched to a lot of good info on the pros and cons of an LS6 swap...it's a little on the long side, but worth the read if you're planning an LS6 longblock swap.

I've done the LS6 longblock swap, so you can check it out at the link in my sig.

 

Yea, I'm pretty conservative.. I want 100% stock reliability and be able to ace through emission testing (which really is just OBDII testing though). All which a LS6 should be able to easily go through (except an odd question of what to do about EGR, and what it means not to have it exaclty) and if I'm going to be replacing the engine, I want everything to be 100% new.. (which eliminates getting a used engine)


But 100% stock reliability means not really have to lift valve covers for 100k miles, which GM more or less builds the production engines like the LS6 to. Hence why I'm not too interested in going beyond a LS6 cam. I don't want to have to replace valvesprings every 20k miles to support a wilder cam. I don't want to worry about that wierd tool metal those 918 and similar springs use on initial warm up. Unless someone can persuade me without a doubt of an aftremarket setup that can be just as reliable.


Aim is to have this car not only be able to survive normal daily driver duty, but also be able to survive roadcourse open track duty, with little maintence needed.

Hence why I'm looking at a LS6.

Plus as Banddirector says, the little things add up. BTW, nice page btw on the LS6 swap. I've came to the same conclusion seperately, that in the end about how much money total I'd have to spend, for some various other stuff I too also wanted to do. So I gotta wait a few more paychecks to come in to save that money..

 

This is exactly what I was gonna post....TSP rocks! I almost wanna sell the LT1 and buy me somehgeads for the LS1.