98 Z28 Won't Start
#1
98 Z28 Won't Start
On Sunday I tried to crank my 98 Z28 and the engine just turned over and wouldn't fire, like it didn't have any spark. I turned the key off and tried again and it did the exact same thing. I tried it a third time and it wouldn't do anything not even turn over, just nothing. I tried multiple more times and after about 10 times it fired right up. On about three different occasions after that I would turn the switch to start and absolutely nothing would happen. After I would try it about 20 times it would start right up.
So I'm trying to figure out what it is...If the car just did nothing when I tried to start it up, then it could just be anything in the starter circuit, but what stumps me is the couple of times that it did turn over but had either no spark or fuel?????
Does anbody have any ideas on what could be causing this? I tested the little chip in the key and it is reading 1130 ohms across the key at the connector at the bottom of the steering column, so it seems to be working alright. Could it be the neutral safety switch?
Thanks,
Trey
So I'm trying to figure out what it is...If the car just did nothing when I tried to start it up, then it could just be anything in the starter circuit, but what stumps me is the couple of times that it did turn over but had either no spark or fuel?????
Does anbody have any ideas on what could be causing this? I tested the little chip in the key and it is reading 1130 ohms across the key at the connector at the bottom of the steering column, so it seems to be working alright. Could it be the neutral safety switch?
Thanks,
Trey
#2
Was the Security light on at any time? Doesn't sound like the fuel system, and doesn't seem to be the starter if it does "start right up" at times... If the security light ever came on then I would guess something is up with the key, even though it tested alright; Maybe it just doesn't sit right inside the ignition now and isn't connecting 100% correctly to allow the car to start... Weird that the engine would turn over those couple of times though and then do nothing, then start right up... Did it all happen at once?
#3
I chased problems like that all through my 00 SS ~ here what I found my problems were:
1. Ignition switch contacts for VATS were wore out ~ installed resistor in line & eliminated the need for the pelet in the key. (see Shoebox's info)
2. The wiring coming through the kick panel to the BCM was all knoted up & pulled ~ cleaned & released the tension. ~ BCM (security system) worked fine
3. Ground on my Ignition Relay was weak. If the Ignition relay does not pull in, the two 15A Inj 1&2 fuses will not be energized & you will get no spark or fuel. The ground connection to the body was bad on mine (I'm sure my car was built oner the Christmas Holiday (its a Jan 00 build)
Don't go just replacing parts, because you won't fix it ~ I changed BCM, ECM, etc... waste of time & money
Good Luck
1. Ignition switch contacts for VATS were wore out ~ installed resistor in line & eliminated the need for the pelet in the key. (see Shoebox's info)
2. The wiring coming through the kick panel to the BCM was all knoted up & pulled ~ cleaned & released the tension. ~ BCM (security system) worked fine
3. Ground on my Ignition Relay was weak. If the Ignition relay does not pull in, the two 15A Inj 1&2 fuses will not be energized & you will get no spark or fuel. The ground connection to the body was bad on mine (I'm sure my car was built oner the Christmas Holiday (its a Jan 00 build)
Don't go just replacing parts, because you won't fix it ~ I changed BCM, ECM, etc... waste of time & money
Good Luck
#6
Not sure what a TDR relay is ~ if the security light is going out & you can hear the fuel pump cycle up & the engine cranks, its not the BCM or the security system. Go to the relay panel in the engine compartment & verify that when the key is on, the 2 15A fuses are hot enabling the fuel injectors & coils.
#7
My car was doing something simillar to what yours is doing . The dealer said the ignition switch was bad so they changed it out . That worked for a few days and the problem returned . I brought the car back to the dealer and told them that I wanted a refund for the ignition switch job because that was obviously NOT the problem . They then replaced the BCM ( body controll module ) free of charge and I have not had a problem since then . I doubt that the key is bad although they can fail, but very rarely , but from the reading I've done, my own experience and talking to several mechanics, I would bet your BCM is going bad .
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