I just bought a 99 T/A ram air M6 30,600 mi.
It is bone stock right now
I need some suggestions for the first mod I should do

Thanks
Phil

 

Skip shift if it doesnt have it, then lid to start off. Let us know what you want to do with the car and we can point you in the right direction. Autocross, drag or road racing???

 

Need to make sticky on this subject.

First Mods should be:
Skip shift (M6)
Short Throw Shifter (M6)
Lid (a lid is a lid)
Free Mods

 

skip shift, lid, catback

 

No.. skip shift isnt a needed mod..

Ill even let you all have the whole "Lid" as a mod. sure it adds on HP.. and yes its a great bang for the buck.. (it also adds more noise and that I do not like)

Short throw? Hmm for those who dont have a factory Hurst perhaps.. or at least just change out the stick with one of those cheap ones off ebay.. (about $25)

Free mods? not worth the hassle.. but everyone wants every since ounce of power right? hmm

(perhaps my attitude is because I got tired of modding my last car and had to constantly work on it.. havent modded my LS1 1 bit and its not had to have anything shy of oil changes.. thats what I love.. Reliability.

I suggest the best mod.. LEARN TO DRIVE YOUR CAR...
there ya go.. and get some runs at a track.. Be it DRAG OR SCCA get out there and learn to drive better.. You will get tons more out of your car that way..

 

I would have to say that approximately 90% of people who made mods to their cars, would agree the skip shift is a necessity.

Lid adds noise, perhaps a slight amount barely noticeable especially with an aftermarket exhaust on, however this thread was started in order to gain knowledge on how to modify his car, you want to keep your car stock so your input on this topic is not entirely warranted.

I would say do the: Lid and air filter for a proven 15 hp. Along with the skip shift. Then move to the exhaust, catback w/ cutout, for another 15+ hp.

 

You must have had bad luck with your last car.
I have done the mods to mine and have not had a lick of trouble out of it.

 

If you had read properly, you would of noticed that I suggested that he learn to drive. That is the single best mod. Nothing else will make your car faster for cheaper.. I tutored a 17yr old and got him to take his 2004 Mach 1 from 13.9's to 13.1's stock. What got him there? Knowledge and experience.. The more time he spent at the track and learning how his car worked in different climates he found how to launch and when to shift and what was a good track day for him.. thats 8 tenths from just 6 trips to the track (about 8-12 passes per trip).. so at $15 a trip... he spent $90 and got almost a second off his times.. Not too shabby if you ask me.

Lids give you a gain but not a "proven" 15hp gain. I have dynoed and shown a 8 rwhp gain.. The airfilter will hurt your car by 3 rwhp.


Skip shift does not come one unless:

• the enine temp is 170 degrees or more
• the car is traveling at 15-20mph
• the accelorator is at 35% or less

so again.. not needed.. Perhaps you drive your car very differently..

Exhaust choice.. notice how I dont like them but again.. having had tons of experience on Fbodys I will list out my choices..

• Money no object - Corsa.. best most refined sound
• Money is an object I perfer to keep - Dynomouth with single 3" turndown
• Customized exhaust money no object - Lanes Wheels true duals
• Customized exhaust money matters and wanting something different - get a custom chambered exhaust (NON GMMG) with 3" -3.5" tubing all around.. Single out with turn down.

For exhaust, the more pipe you have coming after the muffler the quieter the sound.

Dont spend your money on needless things like hand held programmers.. If you do a serious mod like cam or heads and cam, then get it dyno tuned..

Wheels are waste unless you really need the traction of a larger tire.. and until you get 400rwtq you technically dont need more than 245's (stock).
My personal tire chollection:

• 2 - Nitto Drag radials (245's) - mounted.. best DR for street and track...
• 2 - BFG Drag radials (255's) - mounted.. best DR for track..
• 2 - ET Streets ( cant remember.. fits stock wheel) - Unmounted now... best for track
• 4 - Goodyear tires on firebird wheels for when I get my stockers powder coated.
• 4 - Yokohama AVS ES100 (245's) best tire for street and strip.. not a drag radial but it does offer good launches and great cornering. Best all around tire for the price (note that I have previously tired many street tires and found they all inferior to these.. for the price.. Granted the P-Zeros were great.. but for the cost.. not worth it. Kumhos are the worst. If you like them, try a better tire and realize why they lack so much)

Editing- lets not forget suspension!

• Poly Tranny mount (I used Energy Suspensions - was happy on my other Fbod)
• Poly torque arm bushing (I used Energy Suspensions - was happy on my other Fbod)
• Sub Frame Connectors (definate plus!)
• LCA's (if lowering you should get relocation brackets)
• Panhard Rod
• Adjustable Torque Arm (if that many mods are done)

Remember suspension gets you traction which will put your power to the ground.
Little formula thats simple to use - Add suspension till you hook and then add power till you spin.. Repeat.. Stock the car just needs tires and can hook.. as you add power you will have to add some suspension accordingly to get traction.. but not right away.. Good tires will net you traction with a bit of power.. Keep in mind wider means more contact patch with means more friction which will slow you down..

There ya go.. years of experience rolled up into one little post.. enjoy!

 

LT1 was my last car..
the short list:

• Heads 2 times..
• Tranny - 6 times in 3 years.. the 4L60E sucks.. if it fails get a TH400 and be done with it.
• Gears 1 time after grenading a auburn rear end.
• Intake gasket 2 times.. switching to an electric waterpump hurt me because while it out flows the mechanical one at idle it doesnt at WOT and I would spend 2 hours a day visiting WOT often! That caused tons of coolant issues and eventually would blow.. Sucks..
• Spun bearing during first 300 miles after new heads installed..

During contless dyno days have seen modded cars have issues of all types.. from simple ones that will still leave you stranded (belt falling off an ASP Pulley - once the belt comes off its no good.. been stretched.. maybe able to limp you back but it will keep falling off.) to really bad ones that want to make you buy a Honda (internal engine failure)..

 

Free mods---Catback--lid---tune=109MPH traps easy