Okay, I really need help figuring out what's wrong with my wiring and how to fix the problem. Basically, my car's ignition is staying on constantly- it's like the key is in the ON position even when it's off. To fix that problem, I installed a switch and routed all the gauge's power & ground wires through the switch. So, now I can turn my gauges on & off, but it's STILL acting like the ignition is stuck in ON. Also, when the car is running, I will turn the key off and remove the key, yet the engine will continue to run (again, like the ignition is still on when it's technically not).

My other problem is, the tachometer seems to read fine as long as it's below 4300 RPM, but anything higher and the tach goes NUTS. In neutral, the engine revs all the way, but the tach acts funny after 4300 RPM. What's strange is, it seems to affect the engine's RPM (bouncing and surging erratically) only when the car is under load. Keep in mind that before I started splicing my instrument cluster harness wires, the car ran perfectly fine- it turned on & off properly and revved perfectly.

The only wires I've even hooked up are the Tachometer wire, the Fuel Gauge wire, and the power & ground wires. In order to route everything into a switch, I linked all three power feeds found in my instrument cluster wiring harness (according to the schematics sheet, two wires are for "gauges" <10-amp fuse>, and the third wire is for "courtesy" <15-amp fuse>). The main ground wire is hooked to the gauges, and the secondary ground wire is hooked to the switch. Aside from these wires, NOTHING ELSE HAS BEEN WIRED UP OR SPLICED.

Can anyone out there shed some light on my problems here??? I really dunno what to do @ this point...

 

Have you tried just replacing the ignition switch in the steering column?

 

We need some detail. What gauges, where did you take power etc. from, wire colors, etc.

 

They're Nordskog digital gauges. Spent a pretty penny on the whole set (about $1400). I took the power from the three power feed wires that was originally wired to the OE gauge cluster. Two wires are pink, and the wiring schematic says "power feed from gages (fuse 9)", and the other wire is a thicker orange wire that the wiring schematic says is the "power feed from courtesy (fuse 8)".

Oh, and FYI, this is on a 1993 Camaro Z28...

 

OK, I think I have a suggestion. The two pink wires might be the VATS part of the ingnition switch. I think if you find another switched power source your problems will go away?

 

So what do I do with the original power feed wires? Loop the two pink ones together? What about the orange one? Do I just leave all of them hooked to nothing? How would I go about finding an alternate power source that's wired to the ignition, so that it only comes on when the key is turned on?

 

I am going by memory, so please check a wiring diagram before you proceed. If I do remember correctly, there are two pink wires coming off the ignition switch. The resistance chip on our keys triggers activation across both wires thus starting the car. Some wire a resistor across the two wires to eliminate the need for the key chip. I am guessing that by using both, you have thrown off the start process. Again, check this out before proceeding.

 

Well, I solved the "ignition always on" problem. I just disconnected to two pink wires. Should I leave them disconnected, or should I bridge the two together? I'm still having the tachometer problem, and the gauges still need a switch to turn them on & off. Also, the car is acting like the alternator's not charging the battery. The car craps out at higher RPM's (while under load), and the radio will flicker on & off, especially when I turn it up louder. I don't understand why, since I just replaced my alternator. Actually, I replaced the alternator before that one, and it crapped out after two weeks. The one I currently have, I just installed it two days ago. Any clues??? I can't imagine the alternator not working properly simply because there's no voltmeter wired up...

 

Leave the two pinks like you found them. I would think that would be not tied together. What year and model are we working on? I will take a look at the wiring diagrams I have when you let me know this.

 

1993 Camaro Z28.

 

OK, here are a couple things to look at. Orange wire seems to be hot all the time. Not the source you want. One pink brings in the power and the other takes the power once the ignition switch is in the on position. You will need to use a volt meter to determine which is which. You would wire power off the one receiving the power once the ignition is in the on position.
The tach signal is a white wire. You might have a fuse out. Check PCM fuse, number 5, 15 amp. Also check fuse 9, gauge fuse, 10 amp. Good luck.