That's pretty interesting. If it works, it implies that there is resistance and losses in the switches & wires that cause the motors to drag.
Here's what the circuitry inside the relay looks like...

 

Exactly. Check the link to the original post that I attached. There was a pretty legnthy discussion about that. Now, I just need to get another wire throught that firewall. I have a 4AWG running through behind the computer for my amp. Anyone know if I can manage to shoehorn another 8AWG through that same grommet...or if there is another access?

 

What year cars does this apply to? I'd surely assume all, but before i go to taking apart my doors and wiring it up i tohught i'd ask!!

 

All 4th gens(93-02). Not sure if it would apply to 3rd gens.

 

My window motor is giving me some trouble. As the schematic reads, do I need to run power wire(s) from the battery to the relays?

 

Yes you need to run power form the battery to the relays.

On another note make sure you get quality relays. I had relays fail twice for me. The first time one failed I decided to do the thermo bypass while I had it apart. I didn't notice any difference in window speed. Well after the second relay failure I got mad at it and put the wiring back to stock. The windows slowed down considerably after that. Now I am considering putting the relays back in but this time not putting them in the door so I can replace them more easily. To me the difference in speed is worth putting the relays in. Of the 2 relay failures one was the relays fault (first failure) the second was my fault. The second time I put it back together I didn't secure the relays well enough and they shifted and made contact with the window causing one of them to break.

I hope this information will be helpful. Just make sure you buy automotive quality relays and make sure they are secured clear of the windows motion and you shouldn’t have the problems I had.

 

can we pick up these relays from an auto store or hardware store? Anybody have any brands or part numbers they would reccomend for this job

Also is the procedure done the same for both sides? I'm not sure if the double switch on the driver side makes it any different, looking at the schematic
http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg
it looks like it is the same for both sides, but just want to make sure since I will be doing the driver side first.

 

Yeah you can get the relays from Auto Zone. Check out post 75 in this thread: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...r+relay&page=5
The relay mentioned there would clean up the wiring a little.

 

cool. sounds really good to me.

oh, here's a good pic of how I route wires/hoses through the firewall on the drivers side



you can see exactly where the hole needs to be drilled to stay away from the pedals and stuff by referencing the strg column bolts. drill from the inside, very easy and under the brake booster so almost cant see it at all from under the hood. just an idea for someone looking to pass a 8ga. wire through.

 

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...427522e2bca901

This could save you all time and money!

 

wow. very awesome. simple one stop shoping.

 

Anybody else considered or perhaps tried the autotrix window fix?

 

^I didn't even see your post..

http://www.autotrix.net/

Ahem... THis works too.. Search under thermal mod, or something like that.. it may be on here or LS1 tech.. I can't remember.

 

The relay mod is the real deal, I did this to the passenger side and it is rocket fast and powerful. I have the stuff for the driver side and I will do it soon.

 

I've been watching this thread to see an answer to that question because I was going to buy it but wanted to see how well it worked.