Well, after having a problem with my ignition and such, I went ahead and decided to bypass the VATS system.
All this is outlined on Shoebox's site here: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key

This tells you all the info you need pretty much.

The things I wanted to shed a little bit of light on though was it isn't as difficult as I was running into with mine.

I couldn't get one of my key's to OHM properly for whatever reason. Well, that really isn't necesarry in theory.

Insted of using 3 resistors to bypass for my 7500 ohm's (value 13), I just picked up a $2.50 Potentiometer from Radio Shack and used it insted.
This was much easier, and made a very clean install.
This would also allow ANY key range to work. You wouldn't have to find the correct series of resistors to work for your key value.

Here is the potentiometer. http://www.free.ri-hosting.net/users...e/VATS/Pot.jpg
Very small little thing.

I just snipped the plug off the ignition side of the system (as shown in Shoebox's wiring diagram), and continued from there. Here is the "pot" compared to the plug for size reference.
http://www.free.ri-hosting.net/users...TS/Compare.jpg
About the same size.

So, I had the plug out, and in order to make this really easy on myself, I just soldered the plug up to the potentiometer. On the "pot" you solder to the two leads closest to the adjustment screw.
http://www.free.ri-hosting.net/users...ATS/Joined.jpg

If you know the ohm value of your key, it is easiest to test this and set it beforehand. You test across the same last two leads toward the adjustment screw.
http://www.free.ri-hosting.net/users.../VATS/Test.jpg

The reason I said in theory you didn't really even need the key resistance is because you could technically plug this back up, and just have someone turn the key over and hold it, then turn the adjustment screw until the car fired.

So if you know the value, just turn the screw until it gets there (to the median value) before you solder, or, if you don't, then do it the other way.

Then, just take your plug, and stick it back in.
http://www.free.ri-hosting.net/users.../VATS/Plug.jpg

I taped mine down so it would rattle around and ground out or anything. But this is just as good as (if not better than) the resistor method, and if you have to buy 3 packs of resistors, cheaper.

Also, just a note of my symptoms in case anyone gets to searching for this stuff...
Car was fine, then just wouldn't crank.
Turn it over, security light was on.
Spare key wouldn't work, and a newly made key wouldn't work (I got it for free, so, why not try).
The computer threw error code 0046 which was just passkey 2, no further descirption.
My guess is it is actually the ignition switch gone bad - not reading the key correctly. But I could be wrong. Either way, this fixed it.

Perhaps this will be of some use.

NOTE: This potentiometer won't work if your key value is 15. This pot only goes to 10k ohms. Value 15 is 11800 ohm's median, so you will have to get a larger ohm pot, or use the resistor method. (I think a larger ohm pot just like this is available though).

 

thanks dalton...i think I may give this a try...put my wiring skills back on the block and see how it goes. Im tired of getting that security light and having to wait 5 minutes for it to turn off before I can start the car.

Cory

 

Thanks for taking the time to post the info. Where under the dash is the VATs plugged in...I can't tell from your pic, and don't have a manual (yet). Just bought the car yesterday.

Any special color wires or other identifiable marks?

 

Look here...

 

Most Excellent..!

 

Thank you very much! Did what you instructed and it works!