I'm not sure if this is the right forum or not. I did some searching and wasn't able to find anyone that was only going to temporarily bypass the AC pump.

I was getting ready to leave for an appt this morning and my car wouldn't turn over. Took the serpentine belt off and all accessories spin except for the AC compressor.

What I want to to is temporarily install a bypass so that I can drive my car around and fix the AC at a later date. I'm worried about just disconnecting the AC lines because 1) the system is still charged and 2) i don't want foriegn contaminants to get into the AC system and cause further damage.

Are the same type of auto sealing schrader valves on the AC compressor? Is it realisistic to want to put AC back on my car and expect to only have to replace/repair the comrpessor?

Thanks for the help.

 

Not exactly "Advanced Tech".... I'll move it.

Not clear what you are trying to do.

To clarify, are you saying the pulley on the compressor clutch is frozen, preventing the serpentine belt from moving? Are you looking for a way the belt can bypass the compressor? Or do you feel that the problem with the compressor clutch is somehow affecting the PCM and preventing the engine from "turning over", hence you want to electronically bypass the AC sensors?

 

So you want to like hang the compressor down below and install a bypass pulley?

Since the waterpump is gear driven (or electric), you can run without the belt if you must. You won't have power steering or an alternator, so you'll need to charge your battery each time you park.

 

The compressor pulley is locked up, it won't spin preventing the car from turning over. I got a bypass pulley yesterday and was planning to remove the compressor from the car and install the bypass pulley until I can get around to fixing the AC. If I remove the AC compressor, is this going to leave the lines open to debris? I don't have my Haynes manual with me, so I don't know any of the specifics. I would consider running with no belt for a while, but I have to make a 125 mile trip to get back to orlando for work and don't think the car will make it that far without several recharges. I haven't used the AC for probably 6 months, is it possible that there was no internal damage and it was just the idler bearing on the compressor that failed?

Ideally I want to retain AC capability, but don't want to wait for a special order compressor at the parts store (none of them around me carry a compressor and would have to order it). What is the best course of action, knowing I want AC back in the near future and hoping that I can take apart the compressor and repair it myself (much better option than buying a reman unit and much cheaper than buying a $450+ new compressor)?

 

If the compressor was seized up, but the clutch was still healthy, you should have no problem. The clutch pulley disconnects the compressor from the belt, so the compressor doesn't turn when the A/C is turned off (remember, the A/C also runs in the defrost and bi-level modes). Have you verified that its not an A/C clutch problem?

 

I don't know how I would go about verifying a clutch problem besides trying to start the car with the AC off. I know the clutch is operated by an electric solenoid that engages and disengages the pump. While trying to start my car the AC system was turned off, making me believe that the clutch would be disengaged. However I don't know the default position of the clutch and it is possible the solenoid went bad. I just find it strange that the car was driving fine, I made the 125 mile trip here but the AC pump won't spin.

The last time I had an AC pump fail on a different car, it was while the car was running. Because the engine was already running the belt was rubbing against the pulley and was being destroyed, I smelled it and turned off the car. I had to take the belt off to drive the car up on the toe truck. I could actually feel that the bearing was broken (the pulley was movable and you could feel the metal chunks).

 

Something is not adding up here...

If the compressor clutch is seized, the compressor will still turn, that will mess up the AC system eventually but it will not prevent the car from starting.

If the compressor is sized then disengaging the clutch will let it spin freely, again, and the car should start.

Unfortunately, just keeping the AC off will not be enough. GM setup the system to intermittently cycle the the clutch even with the system off to keep the oil circulated to prevent leaks at the o-ring seals. OTOH, it's easy enough to just pull the clutch plug, making it impossible for the coil to energize.

 

Thanks for all the help. I got the compressor out, it was completely locked up.