easyc4

OK here's a step by step of my problem.

A few weeks ago my car began to have problems starting takign 1-3 times to start, but would start on the first try if it was started within 2-3 hours before hand.

I got my battery tested and autozone said it was 100%

Past few days the car wouldn't start until the 3-4th try.

Yesterday i was driving and the car had a very rough start. Once i was out driving the battery gauge would drop into the red zone. Leaving my car severely underpowered and ready to stall. Every 5 -10 minutes however the battery gauge would go back upto normal and teh car would drive just fine. But very shortly afterwards it would fall again.

I went to my friends house and when i turned off the car it wouldn't start back up again. Since i wanted to bring it home so i can work on it, we decided to jump the car. It started right up when we jumped it, on the first try but would idle between 1600-2500 rpm's and would jump up and down all across the board. In nuetral it would rev upto 3500 rpm's. the car was almost unable to be stopped (which wasn't good since tehre were cops everywhere last night). anyways, i got it home.

Today i took out the alternator and took it to autozone, and ahd it checked, and they said it was running tis full 14 volts. when i got back home i noticed the alternator battery wire was loose from teh terminal, so i put it back in and tried to fire teh car back up, after installing the atlernator of course.

Now when i try to start the car, it gives the ever so slightest crank then jsut goes to rapid fire clicking. I checked most of teh grounds and most of the terminals etc. and they all seem to be fine, along with the wires.

Now i need your guys' experience to tell me whether its my starter jsut gone bad or whether it is something more simply like say a wire or switch. In all honesty i doubt it a wire as they all semm to be fine, but i'll let you guys throw this one abck at me.

HBHRacing

it honestly still sounds like a voltage issue from the battery. take teh car to a shop and have them check teh chraging system. 9 out of 10 people at autozone have no idea what they are looking at.

Brew8194

My car somewhat of a similar problem

I have a 383 stoker in a 97 ... My motor was overheating my starter not allowing it to start till cooled off at let my selonoid closed or what ever I put a ($20)total remote mount selonoid from autozone and mounted it next two the battery and ran heavy wire to starter and no problems since also before I figured out this was my problem I went with a gear drive starter from summit for 150 and it was well worth even considering my old starter was still good
go with a gear drive ( or gear reducton)
hope thsi helps

Need4Camaro

DEFINATELY a bad alternator. I'm convenced it's NOT the Starter because once the car is finally started, the starter is void and can have nothing to do with your car running rough or losing volts here and there. Just because the Alternator's bad doesn't mean they'll always read bad. They can play games with you for months and decide to quit one Monday morning. That means it COULD read a full charge one day and completely dead another. I agree, the whole charging system is going to have to be watched for more than just 3 minutes at Autozone. Then I'll bet the Alternator will start glitching and show it's not charging the battery. This would also explain why your car was running at High RPMS, It had to so it would keep the alternator charging and to keep itself running. Replace the Alternator and be prepared to replace the battery too, they usually go out as a team since they rely heavily upon eachother. If you're lucky, you may beable to get away with replacing the Alternator and just giving the battery a full charge.

Best luck to ya!