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I have a 2001 SS m6 58K miles, last week the car was slow to crank. I would turn key, got fuel pump primer, headlights go out like expected, but no crank. Then after 3 turns car started. while driving and its happened twice since the slow start; the car engine will just die while actually driving. The radio stays on, lights on. just engine dead. pull over with no power steering. brakes.. ect.. and then car wont crank when turned. It started after 5 minutes and drove home.
its been about a week since second time car died while actually moving... and I try to start it every day in garage and it wont crank. I have changed almost all relays boxes under hood but same thing...
If no codes, could be a problem with the ignition switch. Not an unusual problem as these cars age. Sometimes there will be signs of the switch overheating, damaged contacts and melted plastic.
Shoebox has a good write up on ignition switch problems. While it's primarily for the LT1, it does have info on the LS1 models. All years use the same switch.
Thanks injuneer. There is no security light or codes when obd2 scanned. is it possible for the engine to shut off with a faulty ignition switch? i get the no cranking part of it but once started i dont see why it would die.
Read Shoebox's write up. He indicates he experienced sudden engine shutdown while driving due to ignition switch intermittent failure. Lose 12 volts to the PCM, ignition and fuel system - all things that use “switched” 12 volt power - and the engine dies.
I swapped out the ignition switch. it was not fun and the old part actually looked in good shape. Car still wont start which is very frustrating. I pulled the starter relay out of a 1999 z28 and then it started right up. super frustrating again as i just replaced with relays.
one thing i noticed the factory had 7236 relays for the ignition & starter. . But current part numbers are 8864 not 7236. all the major part catalogs also list the 8864 so not sure what to believe...
anyways i have no idea again why the engine would shut off while driving again & then also have the no crank problem.
Did you make a basic check to see if you were getting 12 volt power to the “switched 12 volt” service fuses with the switch in the “run” position, as suggested in the Shoebox writeup. Or did you just decide to take a chance that was the problem?
i really should have tested for power. The symptoms were there so i just skipped it and stated changing parts. Is there a link to the page with 12volt testing? i am not finding it on shoebox site?
I just tested the "30" value on the (starter / ignition) relays with a light and am getting power but am not sure what is a correct test.
The recommendation on checking for DC voltage at the “switched” power fuses is in the link I already gave you. But it is a simple sentence, not a detailed procedure. It involves simply turning the key to “run” and checking the correct fuse contacts in the fuse block(s) for the presence of 12 volts DC. To identify the “switched” power fuses you need to look at the wiring diagram for your specific year. The diagrams are in the factory service manual. Download 2000 manual (virtually identical to 2001) here:
If you are not familiar with reading the wiring diagrams, or using a multi-meter, get a friend to help.
Alternatively to checking at the fuses, you could check at the switch itself, since you now know where it is. You would check the terminal (or wire) for the correct pin with the key in “run” position (switched power), and also the correct pin with the key in the “start” position (power to starter relay). If both of those don’t have power, it's possible a fuse is blown between the battery and the ignition switch. In the earlier years of the 4th Gens they used fusible links, which look like part of the wire. In the later years they may have switched to actual fuses - I really don’t know.
I can take a look at the 2000 factory manual later today and suggest which fuses to check, and which terminals to check on the switch if that would help, but I won’t have time to do that until later today.
You need to make sure you have 12 V power into the switch on the red wire on pin B
In "run" you need 12 V power out of the switch on pink wire on pin C
In "start" you need 12 V power out of the switch on the yellow wire on pin A
Pin B can be checked by pulling the connector off and probing pin B (red meter lead) and a good chassis ground (black meter lead).
If there is no 12 V power into the switch on pin B, check the 50-amp "IGN" Maxi-Fuse in engine wiring harness junction block 2 - under hood, driver side, two boxes near the fender, in front of the inner fender liner. block 2 is the rearward one on the fender liner. The cover has a diagram of fuse locations.
The power out wires can be pierced with a straight pin, and the red lead attached to the pin, black to a good chassis ground.
Alternatively, to check for power out, check for 12 V at the feed side of these fuses in Junction Bock 2:
- "STRTR" (from triangle "M")
- "PCM IGN" (from triangle "L")
- "ABS IGN" (from triangle "L")
Thanks for all the help injuneer. Its been about 2 weeks and the car has not experience any issues. I used my light on the relays and then on fuses and everything is working. My assumption is i wont see anything by testing when the car is running right. It must have been a combination of relay switch / hood relays that were the culprits.
A strange thing i noticed was the OEM ignition switch had LOTS of oil on it. i took a pic and the oil is visible on the sides even after i had wiped it off and set it aside for a few days.
from triangle "S")
