Way WAY too low. If, and you still haven't convinced me it's good, the battery is good, something is drawing current way too much. You haven't found it yet.

Use a voltmeter set as an Ammeter. Disconnect the ground wire from the battery. Hook the positive lead from the meter to battery cable and hook the negative meter lead to the negative battery terminal. With everything shut completely down, see how much current you are drawing.

It should not show more than about .01 amps. At this point start pulling fuses 1 at a time and then replace it before moving to the next one until you get that low. Leave the radio and PCM fuses for last.

A few notes of caution. If you have an amp installed, start there. Check any bulb you can't see in plain sight like the glove box and the console. Many times these become dislodged and stay on all the time.

Start with a high scale on the meter. Most have 10amp scale. Then if you need to, lower it until you get a reading. If you over load an ammeter, it will blow the protective fuse and it will not read. Therefore if you are not getting a reading from the ammeter, double check the fuse. Many folks have inadvertently thought they were reading 0 current when infact the meter was defective. It is for this same reason that you start high and work down in scale.

I forgot to add to measure the voltage across the battery right after you remove the battery cable. If it is less than 12.6 volts, the battery has a problem.

 

If it is a speaker wire that is grounding, wouldn't it only draw on the battery when power is being sent to the speaker? I would think that when the car is off, the radio would prevent power from going to the speaker and thus a short beyond the head-unit would not be a problem. Anyone know more about this?

I believe I've already identified that the short is some where on the PWR ACCY fuse. Would that include any of the wires/connections that go the control switches on the door (i.e., door locks, windows, mirror controls, etc.)?

Thanks for any replies!