im new to the camaro world and car world and need some help with my application. I trying to make a car that is not a street car, but a track car. i wanna be able to take it to road course races and to the stripe.

1.Someone on here asked if i was going to stay with the lt1 engine or go to a bb or small block. what is suggested.i though a fixed up lt1 would always be better than an old sckool setup b/c the lt1 is fuel injected.


2.my next questions is im thinking of making my lt1 a 386 stroker, and putting a blower on it. Im thinking of going with an le package, but cant figure out witch one to get. Whats better le2, or le3.also i like the whinning noice the superchargers make. lol, Im thinking of going with procharger. Dont they have the DISC kit or something like that. If not witch company has that kit. I cant remember the makers name.

3.For suspension I have been told to race my car for better performance b/c its dropped three inches. Im thinking of going with the air suspension set up so i can lower my car for the road courses and raise it for the strip. I know that this suspension works well at the track, but how bout the strip. Also is it actually all that good at road courses or should i go another route.


4.Im also trying to get a 12 bolt or 9 inch. planing on running at least 650 hp. but i wanna keep limited slip. can i keep the limited slip aspect when i get the new rearend, cuz full posi isnt for road courses or am i wrong.

5.what does 4 link mean. Also what is ment when i see members toalking about a4 and m6.

6.also wanting to get ride of ac. I no i need to get ac delet pully but not sure on how to remove hole assembly. it looks like i have to radiators.do i remove the one that is connected to the the ac. it would help if i could get full instructions on how to do. i also want to relocate the alternator. the kit i want though says i gotta remove the power steering. how will this effect my road coarse performace. at the drag strip i no it makes no diff but what bout the road coarses. i know i maybe seem not ready for all the power im looking for but im not new to power and speed. i used to race 1000cc street bikes at ama compititions. so i know my limits.what else can i remove from the engine bay to lightn things up. sorry for it being so long but hey thats, this is why im here.

 

posi=limited slip, you're thinking of locker when you say it's not for road courses.

I made a post about suspension recommendations under your other thread if you haven't seen it yet.

You say you're trying to make a race car, but what are you looking for? Strip or auto-x or road racing? From what I've gathered you want one primarily for road racing. Keep in mind that some of the things that will help a car lift the fron tires on the strip will make your car handle like crap when you try to turn. For example, the fact that your car is dropped so much is definently going to hurt your weight transfer/suspension geometry and all that if you try to launch it. There is a happy medium there somewhere, but who wants that if you're really going to get into it. Decide what you want your car to be able to do well before you get too far into it.

 

Good point...Beggers can't be choosers i guess. But whats the medium your talkning about. I am just curious.

 

I can't tell you that, I've only done research in the handling area. According to everyone on this site, your best bet would be to call Sam Strano and tell him what you want to do with your car and he will do his best to set you up wiht what you need.

 

You might want to evaluate what you truly want to do with your car first. It will be difficult to find a compromise between both a road course warrior and a drag strip bruiser. Plus, as noted above, the three inch drop isn't the best of choice for a drag strip suspension setup. Also, I'm not sure what your budget is like, but cost should be factored in as well. A full race suspension will tally up well over two grand. A brand new 12 bolt will run over two grand. A rebuilt race tranny will run over two grand. A LE2/LE3 motor with a blower and a forged shortblock to handle all of that power will probably push around 10 grand after it is all said and done. Long story short, modifying your car gets expensive really quick, so make sure you know exactly what your goals are before you start ordering parts so you don't have to do things over again. Anyways, best of luck to you though.

 

well Im more in to road racing so I will go with that. What road racing leagues are there, and whats the differance. Im thinking of taking out a loan to do all the work, so thats my budget. I geuss my biggest question is then, is it possible to have a road course car that will runs tens, or even nines. Thats one of my biggest goals is to run a mid ten.

 

Yeah, power can get you to 11s but suspension gets you faster.

Why are you looking for this kind of monster anyways? It's kind of overboard IMO. 11 seconds is fast for a car. I know it's nothing on a bike but there's not many cars on the street that can touch anything under the 12s. You can be faster on a roll run though, but it's the hooking up part for a launch that you can't do.

 

Helpful hint..... post a SINGLE subject in each thread. Post the topic in the correct forum - "engine", "suspension", "drivetrain", etc.

Posting 6 different subjects in a single thread generally does not produce good results.

 

ok.

 

is there a f-body road course car that any one knows about that does run ten's. I'd like to talk to them. And to answer the queation about why i want a monster for a car, is...who the hell wouldnt want a car that did that.

 

Like I said, call Sam Strano or something. He gets calls from people all day that ask questions like yours. He will tell you whats possible and what you need. If anything, you can get two sets of shocks/springs or coilovers and switch them as needed. There is a torque arm out there made by unbalanced engineering (do a search on that) that has all the launch benefits fo a short torque arm and the handling/braking benefits of a long arm. Only problem is you need a certain spring rate on the back to get the most out of it.