General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech For general F-Body discussion that does not fit in any other forum.
For F-Body Technical/Information Discussion ONLY

removing steering wheel lock

Old Sep 19, 2008 | 05:00 PM
  #1  
tom3's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 197
From: Los Angeles, CA
Question removing steering wheel lock

if you look at the picture on shoebox's site:

http://shbox.com/1/steering_column_exploded.jpg

the item number 6 (lock, shaft) is where I am stuck at

What kind of tool to use?
I tried to pry it off with absolutely no success
Old Sep 20, 2008 | 03:37 PM
  #2  
tom3's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 197
From: Los Angeles, CA
I tried to borrow a puller but I can not fit it in there.

Any idea?
Old Sep 20, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #3  
shoebox's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,727
From: Little Rock, AR
You have to use a compressor to push the lock plate in, so that you can remove the snap ring. It's a very simple and cheap tool you can buy/rent at most auto parts stores.
Old Sep 20, 2008 | 04:56 PM
  #4  
tom3's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 197
From: Los Angeles, CA
yes, I have done that, but I am stuck on the next step:

The wheel with the notches that is used to lock the steering wheel. I can not get it to move even a little bit.
Old Sep 20, 2008 | 05:19 PM
  #5  
Green96Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,356
From: CA, home of the smog nazi
That's what Shoebox is telling you. You need a tool like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ite...0Lock%20Plates

You thread it onto the steering wheel shaft, and it compresses the ring down. Then you remove the C clip (number 5) and the ring comes off.
Old Sep 20, 2008 | 06:42 PM
  #6  
tom3's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 197
From: Los Angeles, CA
ahhh! I realized I didn't think right:
I had removed a clip with the lock plate compressor, I didn't think there was two!

ok, this is now done!

I am trying to find out why the key is very hard and needs to be forced; I removed the ignition switch, so it is not the problem.

I now finally removed the key cylinder and it works smoothly.
so it has to be something in the mechanism in between...

do you know what size torx screws are there? I see three and I don't have a bit that fits them
Old Sep 20, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #7  
Green96Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,356
From: CA, home of the smog nazi
I'm not sure what size they are, but when you get that housing off you can take a closer look at the sector gear. The metal shaft that the lock cylinder turns goes through the lower housing across to a vinyl gear (sector gear) and you may very well have sheared some teeth off of that.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Airplanedoc
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
0
Feb 1, 2015 07:14 PM
CaRParts102
Parts For Sale
0
Dec 6, 2014 08:45 AM
ro2207
LT1 Based Engine Tech
14
Dec 4, 2014 06:18 PM
SLIMJIM
Car Audio and Electronics
8
Jan 7, 2003 11:06 AM
Darth Xed
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
13
Jul 22, 2002 12:45 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:12 PM.