RiverMutant96

Does anyone know of a way to get at the top rear shock mounts on a convertible? I have half the interior apart and still cannot even find it!
Rob.

shoebox

You should be able to pull back the carpeting in the trunk, behind the rear seat and find them. The bolts are covered by foam pads.

RiverMutant96

thanks. I will look again, but the seatbelt mounts hold the rug down pretty tight. That was going to be the next thing I take apart! When I slide my hand under there, I can't find nothing.

shoebox

Here is a thread that might help. Though not a convertible, it shows the location.

edit: In post 37 there is a response by a guy with a convertible.

RiverMutant96

Yes thank you Shoebox. Convertibles have a much higher rear deck that transitions to the trunk area which puts the top mounts about in the middle of the rear seat. I took some measurements and made my own cut in the carpet to find access. Otherwise I would have had to remove the rear seatbelt spools to be able to peel back the carpeting.
Sometimes you have to improvise when trying to figure out GM engineering!
Rob

Fatdog2

What shocks are you going with?Just curious.

RiverMutant96

Put on Bilstein front & rear

Fatdog2

Me to as well.Begging the war dept. for the funds.I've been good this year so I may get rewarded.

RiverMutant96

Good luck bro!

Fatdog2

Got em.Ordered them Sunday night and got them today(all 4).(Tire Rack).I'm going to attempt to install the rears but save the fronts for someone experienced for this.I've heard of sudden death with the springs).If I have a hard time doing this I'll just call AAA and have the car towed to my brake and wheel place.(Watched videos on utube).My02.

RiverMutant96

Well that sounds great! The front struts are not that bad, just a lot of stuff to take apart. I don't know if it's different for model year to year, but I had to take off the power brakes on the firewall to get at the top bolts, plus you have to lower the A-arms with a jack. Just basic Gearhead stuff. You will love the difference going down the road, very noticeable improvement!

Injuneer

As I recall, to access the Torx head bolt for the driver side upper spring/shock mount, all I had to do was unbolt the master from the booster and push it off to the side a bit. Would also recommend use of a spring compressor to separate the spring from the coil-over spring shock assembly (it's not a "strut" per se). Safer that way.

cheapchevy

The fronts are not difficult if you borrow or rent a spring compressor. I found the hardest part removing the rusted nut from the top hat. Also, once I didn't align the springs seated quite right and I had to twist the assembly a bit when bolting it in. So, I made a couple alignment drawings. Attached.

Fatdog2

Many thanks for the diagrams.I'm going to take them to my front end guy just in case.I'm semi retired(but you wouldn't know it),and still don't have the time or patience or the equipment or space for the front shocks.Got my shocks last week and I can't get the space or time just to do the rears right now,but it's going to happen.Thanks again.

Injuneer

Pull the spring/shock assembly out of the car. If replacing only the shock, before disassembling it, paint a white stripe on the upper mount and extend onto the top of the spring, and on the lower seat and extend onto the bottom of the spring. That will help you orient the upper seat with respect to the lower shock mount, so the studs in the upper spring/shock mount will insert through the holes in the chassis. No twisting required.

If you are replacing both the spring and the shock, take a photo of the assembly before disturbing it. Or, buy a new upper seat (which is always a good idea), and assemble the shock, spring and upper mount to match the undisturbed old assembly.

If installing a height adjustable shock, like the QA1, assemble it any old way, and the adjustable lower mount (particularly with the optional lower thrust bearing) allows the spring and top mount to be rotated easily.