so my Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Module failed also... it first quit actually disengaging, so, looking at this diagram: http://shbox.com/1/rap_schematic.jpg , I am guessing the Relay-1 inisde of the module is at fault... anyhow, I can't get the RAP module in any normal parts store, its a dealer only item... I will call tomorrow and check the price, but I have a feeling it wont be cheap... SO - is there any way to just wire it all together without a RAPM, by using a relay or two? well, I am sure there is a way, but is there a write up on what to connect where? thanx in advance!

 

If you would post in and search the correct forum, you would have a better chance of finding the answer.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=539007

 

well, that post did not really answer my question... - i am trying to BYPASS the RAPM...

so, I looked at the diagram (is that your nice site???), and it looks like there are 7 wires:

<RED> = from BAT (+)
<BLK> = to GRND (-)
<BRN> = from IGNITION SWTCH ON
<GRY/BLK> = door jamb switches, LH + RH
<YEL/BLK> = low coolant light
<DK BLUE> = to Fuse Block for Stereo (15A) and Power Windows (30A)
<PINK> = to Fuse Block for Power Accessory (15A) ---> whatever that is (???)

so, it looks to me that if I took a regular 4-prong Relay (correctly rated for the Load, I am guessing a 15A should do) and hook up <RED> to one big side of the relay, trigered by <BRN> and <BLK> on the little prongs of the relay, and outputing to <DK.BLUE> + <YEL/BLK> + <PINK ?> on the other big side of the relay...

any thoughts?

 

It answers the question when I read it. I specifically state just how to bypass it.

 

I did indeed read this:
however, I got discouraged by the "temporary" part... I'd like to make it as permanent as possible... Now, a couple of questions - so, the {DK.BLU} and {PNK} wires just act as a trigger, and not a main power wire, correct??? as in, they dont actually carry all of the amperage needed to operate the stereo and windows, etc, instead they just turn on some relay somewhere that switcehs those accessories on??? if so, then why would getting a signal straight from the {BRN} Ignition Switch wire is "not recommended permanently" ??? I think it was originally used as a trigger to control RAPM, so why cant it be a (permanent) trigger to control the stereo and window circuits ??? <-- I suppose that was the reason why I wanted to wire up yet another relay...

 

No, those wires carry power at certain times. You can leave it that way if you want, but it puts more power going through the already taxed ignition switch. If you want to wire up a relay, use the brown wire to trigger it and have it switch the red wire to the Dark Blue and Pink wires. That is what the module ultimately does.


Often, it is just a burnt trace in the module that is a problem and is easily fixed with some solder.

 

I am kinda interested in this... I am assuming that all those wires we talked about are just "trigger" wires, therefore they should not carry the main power, right? so, I wonder what the exact amperages that they carry are, and if these amperages will increase with use of more than one accessory... I will experiment and measure things this weekend, and if I must I could still use a small relay...

what does that pink wire feed anyway? and shouldn't I also hook up the coolant light wire?

 

From your other posts, your car appears to have major problems with the wiring, that I know I have been trying to help you with. Your data logs are full of data errors, you lose the connection at the ALDL, I think you just replaced some sort of steering column module.......

Why not put at least one part of the electrical system back to spec, rather than risk creating a whole new family of wiring problems?

 

well, the dealer wants $115 for the module, and its likely to go bad again anyway
I prefer hardwired to modules and switches
And from what I am seeing, there is absolutely no reason to keep this weird retained power gizmo

 

If you can read the schematic, you should know. If you can't, it will be hard to figure out what to do.

I already said the wires you referred to were not "trigger" wires and did carry power. They feed fuses.

You are not going to be able to easily simulate the electronics for the low coolant latching with a relay.

This is why I recommended wiring around it as a temporary solution. If you want to make it permanent, you'll have to figure out what you will need for whatever you want it to do.

The module is ~$63 GM wholesale.

 

Did you check a discount GM parts dealer, like the ones Shoebox lists on his website?

Why will it "go bad again anyway"? If there is something external causing it to fail, why not find and fix the problem, rather than trying to eliminate the device?

 

ok, so I looked again at the diagrams for the power windows and locks and Bose radio, and you're right (of course), they do all get the power straight through the RAPM. Oh, and the pink "power accessory" is actually the door locks plus the hidden accy wire...

now, there is no diagram for the low coolant light circuits... but as I understood it was meant to keep the warning light on for the duration of time the RAPM was still powered... so, why could I not just provide the same power to that wire??? is it not the same voltage? what parameter varies, if any?

 

ok, so I tried wiring up a relay, and the issue still persists... my RAPM is probably fine...

apparantly, the BRWN wire that comes from the iginition and is supposed to only be hot when the key is on, well, it actually is hot at all times, with the key off as well... so either the wires are shorted somewhere, or some module thing has gone bad... note that recently I had to replace a burned-up ignition switch module (on top of steering column) - and shortly after that this problem begun... so, maybe, either something is wrong with the ignition switch, or whatever caused it to go bad to begin with...

so - any ideas what can be causing this?

 

still struggling with this... why would there be power to this brown wire?

 

bad ignition switch?

unplug the ignition switch connector and see if the brown wire has constant power, if NO, replace the switch