New build won't fire.
08-16-2018, 09:43 PM
#16
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Re: New build won't fire.
A partially charged battery can test near 12 volts with no load on it, but voltage will drop seriously when you put a 200-amp load from the starter on it. The dash gauge probably dropped into the red.
08-17-2018, 02:59 AM
#17
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Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Re: New build won't fire.
Yeah it did but in my defense its been over two years since I've seen the gauge at all so I've forgotten where it normally sits haha.. I'm also oblivious to simple things when troubleshooting.
I will post an update tomorrow when I try it again.
I will post an update tomorrow when I try it again.
Last edited by thenewkid; 08-17-2018 at 03:09 AM.
08-20-2018, 09:19 PM
#18
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Re: New build won't fire.
Ok so it starts now however when im trying to fine tune it I noticed on my scanmaster (only diagnostic tool I have is showing my driver side o2 stuck at: 050 while the passenger side is at 400 and fluctuates up and down. these are denso sensors that I picked up because I heard they were longer (to fit my long tubes) the passenger side worked well but I still had to splice wires into the o2 sensor on the driver side. do you think this is the problem? how do you longtube header guys get around this?2
08-21-2018, 03:59 PM
#19
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Location: St.Louis.Mo,USA
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Re: New build won't fire.
I bought extensions for mine. Have you swapped sensors to see if the scanmaster reports the same info? The passenger side never gets above 400? The readings should fluctuate until WOT.
08-21-2018, 06:21 PM
#20
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Re: New build won't fire.
I went ahead and got 2 extensions from speed inc and 2 acdelco sensors just to see. in the meantime Is it ok to test drivethe car around the block the way it is now in open loop?
08-21-2018, 07:26 PM
#21
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Re: New build won't fire.
They all start in open loop, and stay that way for at least 206-seconds. No problem driving in open loop.
But watch the ScanMaster. To go into closed loop the coolant needs to reach ~140°F, and both O2 sensors need to be hot enough to start working, about 600°F. On cold start, the sensor should read around 450 (millivolts). As they warm up, if the engine has a working AIR system, the voltage will slowly drop toward 0 millivolts, because of all the oxygen (air) the pump is forcing into the exhaust). When the AIR pump shuts off, it should be close to going into closed loop.
in closed loop, both O2 sensor readings should start to switch rapidly back and forth from rich (as high as 900mV, or even above) and lean (as low as 100 mV or even below). The readings will not be identical on both sides of the engine. Each bank is controlled independently.
When the engine has been started cold, and is warming up, if you DO NOT have a working AIR system, readings will start at about 450 mV, and as the sensors warm up, the voltage will start to climb, reflecting the rich A/F mixture the PCM supplies for cold start and warm up.
If you see either side O2 sensor is stuck at a very high (~800 mV) reading or a very low (~200 mV) reading, cut the drive short, because in closed loop that MIGHT cause the PCM to subtract fuel, causing a very lean, or add fuel causing it to run extremely rich.
But watch the ScanMaster. To go into closed loop the coolant needs to reach ~140°F, and both O2 sensors need to be hot enough to start working, about 600°F. On cold start, the sensor should read around 450 (millivolts). As they warm up, if the engine has a working AIR system, the voltage will slowly drop toward 0 millivolts, because of all the oxygen (air) the pump is forcing into the exhaust). When the AIR pump shuts off, it should be close to going into closed loop.
in closed loop, both O2 sensor readings should start to switch rapidly back and forth from rich (as high as 900mV, or even above) and lean (as low as 100 mV or even below). The readings will not be identical on both sides of the engine. Each bank is controlled independently.
When the engine has been started cold, and is warming up, if you DO NOT have a working AIR system, readings will start at about 450 mV, and as the sensors warm up, the voltage will start to climb, reflecting the rich A/F mixture the PCM supplies for cold start and warm up.
If you see either side O2 sensor is stuck at a very high (~800 mV) reading or a very low (~200 mV) reading, cut the drive short, because in closed loop that MIGHT cause the PCM to subtract fuel, causing a very lean, or add fuel causing it to run extremely rich.
Last edited by Injuneer; 08-29-2018 at 08:17 PM.
08-29-2018, 05:02 PM
#23
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Location: Kansas City, Kansas
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Re: New build won't fire.
Sorry it took me a week to respond. I got the proper extensions along with new acdelcos installed and well...
- Its a gas hog at low rpm and for some reason my the right side (pulse, short, and long term ecm learning) read higher, which indicates to me that its running rich due to a exhaust leak on the right side or it just has to compensate to run at idle (600~700rpm) but once its under load, my pulses seem to sync up and runs fantastic ~75mph. Then the short term learning starts to get a bit better after awhile. I'm going to check the right side exhaust this weekend for any leaks and check my header bolts. I feel like its an exhaust leak because my pacesetter ORY hits my frame a lot at idle, anyone else have this problem?
- For you guys that run higher duration cams on the street how often are you changing your spark plugs and what plugs "clean" the best. I've got NGK-TR55 in now, used to use Autolite 104's...
- I have not forgotten about the video you wanted of it running, I'm just waiting for my buddy to help me film a good video for you guys.
- I can't thank you guys enough for all help and information compiled on this forum.
Last edited by thenewkid; 08-29-2018 at 05:05 PM.
09-03-2018, 06:21 PM
#25
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Re: New build won't fire.
Ok well im back for help already. transmission troubles now. new thread here:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/gen...ms-now-886885/
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/gen...ms-now-886885/
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