terminal_crazy

HI
Just changed clutch & bearing on 1995 LT1 T56 Z28.
I've only replaced the disk & bearing from a Kupp stage 4 kit to Centerforce.
My clutch Fork now sits further back & catches the pressure plate when starting the car or on full travel.
The car itself shifts fine.

What options recommended to repair...and how much etc.
Weld back of fork - facing bearing
cut the pivot point down
Least liked is grinding the fork where it contacts thepressure plate.

I managed to turn the bolt holding the pivot but can't see anyway It's going to come out AND go back in again.
I think my easiest option is to pull the exhaust & prop then pull the box off the clutch housing.
I couldn't previously alaig the clutch housing back due to lack of clearance to tunnel with poly mounts & header flange sat on frame. Had to pull the header.

Suggestions please.

Thanks
Mitch.

Chimera96

Mitch

do you have a adjustable MC?

If so you could shorten the travel of the pedal unless you need the current full travel of pedal to get full disengagement.

Fork hitting PP on a single disc clutch is not typical. Twin disc clutches it can. Assuming the fork is not bent or cracked and now flexing you can remove the "T" that the clutch fork clips on and cut a washers thickness off to move the fork back. I had to do that with my McLeod Street Twin...but again not aware of that reason on a single disc clutch

terminal_crazy

Hi,
no, stock mc.
We tried shimming the slave just to get the car back home but ended up with a nut and 2 washers, about 1/3-1/2” with no real change.
the fork sits very close to the pressure plate although it will disengage the clutch so it doesn’t need a lot of adjustment.

it appears to be very common after trawling the internet but no real fixes.

The pressure plate, disk and bearing came as a kit. The Centerforce bearing states stock style on the box so I can only assume the bearing was slightly shorter in the kit. It doesn,t look a lot different to the original I took off (what’s left of it).

I was hoping i could get the pivot and bolt out without pulling the trans but i think the bolt is too long for the gap between its head the pressure plate.

the fork didn’t appear bent as far as I could tell. And the bearing contacting part was only slightly scuffed.

what’s the max i can cut off the pivot before the bolt bottoms out?
or would welding the fork be a better idea and increasing the contact point?

Mitch

Chimera96

So you bought a Centerforce PP, disc, Throwout bearing kit for a LT1. That should be a plug & play install....although I am not a fan of the Centerforce "sliding weight" thing they do on the PP, The PP is like any other clutch brand using the clone Valeo PP that originally came on the car

You are using the stock spacer the slave bolts to, right?

You have the plastic cup on the tip of the slave rod, right?

You using the stock, or ARP, correct PP bolts?

Basically you should not have to cut down the base of the "T" bolt the fork attaches to on a single disc clutch but if the fork is hitting the PP (assuming the answers to the 3 above ?'s is yes) you can cut off a washers thickness. The T bolt is very hard metal so you will need a good cut off wheel to cut it. You need to pull the tranny about 6" away from the bell housing, or completely remove it, to access the bolt that secures it

Pic of my cut down T bolt for my McLeod Street Twin clutch