LT header Install
LT header Install
Hey dudes, im looking to get some headers in a few days thanks to some Xmas money..
I want to go with Pacesetter LTs and ORY
If you guys can list what else you bought to go with your LT install that would be great
Now question is.. Should i get emission headers or non emission..?
Thank you
I want to go with Pacesetter LTs and ORY
If you guys can list what else you bought to go with your LT install that would be great
Now question is.. Should i get emission headers or non emission..?
Thank you
Re: LT header Install
non emmisions headers since we here in NC dont have to pass any sniffer test and 95's and down dont even have to have a cat or AIR. Get the coated, you will regret getting uncoated. i sure do. id get some good gaskets(id get copper ones) also some o2 extensions(not necessary but they are nice. if i had to do it over again i would put some otvc wires and motor mounts in at the same time if your car has anywhere near 100k on it.
Re: LT header Install
Originally Posted by chrisn
non emmisions headers since we here in NC dont have to pass any sniffer test and 95's and down dont even have to have a cat or AIR. Get the coated, you will regret getting uncoated. i sure do. id get some good gaskets(id get copper ones) also some o2 extensions(not necessary but they are nice. if i had to do it over again i would put some otvc wires and motor mounts in at the same time if your car has anywhere near 100k on it.
Alright dude thanks alot, If i don't buy o2 extensions, will the Sensors still be able to reach to the bungs or no?
Re: LT header Install
I have the non-emissions pacesetter long tubes and ORY for my '95 Z28. Definetley get the "Armor coating" over the non-coated, new plugs/wires, Fel-pro header gaskets, 1" header bolts (not 3/4"), new poly motor mounts, buy some of those 2 1/2" SS band exhaust clamps for the y-pipe instead of the standard ones they give you, O2 extensions, sawzall (might have to trim the y-pipe a few inches down to get it to fit and cut your old cat-back depending upon which brand you have). You will have to get O2 extensions unless you want to cut and splice your O2 harness wiring. The headers will slide in from the bottom easily but, requires the car being jacked up extremely high and a helpful second set of hands to hold the header in place while you thread in the first couple of bolts. I highly recommend the poly motor mounts replacement as these headers fit pretty close along some places and if you have the stock mushy mounts in there the headers could rattle against something and be annoying. Any other questions just let us know!
Jeff
Jeff
Re: LT header Install
I would not recomment cutting and splicing your O2 wires to extend them yourself, for a couple of reasons.
The first being... you might not even be ABLE to. I'm not 100% sure what the deal is, but the wire isn't copper like you might be expecting. They are some sort of stainless steel and thus cannot be soldered. Maybe this is only on newer Camaro's/TA's. But even if you can solder them... you don't want to.
By splicing the wires, you are changing the resistance in them, and resistance is exactly what the O2 sensors use for measurements. So you run the risk of scewing up the O2 readings to the computer, which would just be a royal pain.
So... either pay for extentions, or make them yourself (properly that is)
I made my own by going to the scrap yard, finding the correct connectors, gather enough wire, getting the pins, crimping etc...
Making my own was tedeous... but saved me whatever the extentions are going for now. (50 bucks?) Problem for me is I'd have to pay shipping etc.. and in the end would have been more like 100.
Bottom line for me was.. I proved I could make them correctly for next to nothing, but time
The first being... you might not even be ABLE to. I'm not 100% sure what the deal is, but the wire isn't copper like you might be expecting. They are some sort of stainless steel and thus cannot be soldered. Maybe this is only on newer Camaro's/TA's. But even if you can solder them... you don't want to.
By splicing the wires, you are changing the resistance in them, and resistance is exactly what the O2 sensors use for measurements. So you run the risk of scewing up the O2 readings to the computer, which would just be a royal pain.
So... either pay for extentions, or make them yourself (properly that is)
I made my own by going to the scrap yard, finding the correct connectors, gather enough wire, getting the pins, crimping etc...
Making my own was tedeous... but saved me whatever the extentions are going for now. (50 bucks?) Problem for me is I'd have to pay shipping etc.. and in the end would have been more like 100.
Bottom line for me was.. I proved I could make them correctly for next to nothing, but time
Re: LT header Install
Well if you don't have emissions regulations, then it is pointless to worry about the extra hassle of hooking up the AIR and EGR systems so the non-emissions style is definitely the way to go. As for the extensions, they are about 18 bucks a piece which is cheap insurance considering you run the risk of damaging your 02 wiring harness if you do the cut/splice method and also it will save you alot of time. Its alot easier to plug in an extension as compared to cutting/stripping/crimping.
Re: LT header Install
I helped my bro put Pacesetter LT's in his 94 z28.

I have a bunch of pictures of the installation that can be found here if interested:
http://www.oryschak.com/gallery/view...sembly&page=13
They're very nice, like them a lot. And get them coated.
I have a bunch of pictures of the installation that can be found here if interested:
http://www.oryschak.com/gallery/view...sembly&page=13
They're very nice, like them a lot. And get them coated.
Re: LT header Install
Pacesetter LT's
ORY
Copper Mr. Gasket header gaskets
ARP Stainless 12 pt 1" underhead length bolts
o2 extensions
prothane motor mounts
I have been working on mine for the past 2 days and plan to finish it on wednesday. It been easy just time consuming.
ORY
Copper Mr. Gasket header gaskets
ARP Stainless 12 pt 1" underhead length bolts
o2 extensions
prothane motor mounts
I have been working on mine for the past 2 days and plan to finish it on wednesday. It been easy just time consuming.
Re: LT header Install
I just ordered my coated pacesetter LTs, ORY, and o2 extensions from redlineperformanceengineering.com AND I CANT WAIT
im gonna set aside 2 days and try to do this in my driveway.
But why do you recommend 1 inch bolts instead of the 3/4 inch they come with??? do they backout and cause leaks?? can high temp locktight fix this problem??
thanks
im gonna set aside 2 days and try to do this in my driveway.
But why do you recommend 1 inch bolts instead of the 3/4 inch they come with??? do they backout and cause leaks?? can high temp locktight fix this problem??
thanks
Re: LT header Install
I was told that the 1 inch bolts will hold better and that they will have less of a tendency to back out on you. They were the same price as the 3/4" so I thought what the heck.
BTW, if you plan to do it in your driveway, make sure you get the car HIGH off the ground. I did mine in my shop and had the rear on jackstands as high as they would go and then had the front higher than that on taller jackstands.
Here is a short SHORT step by step on how I did mine:
1. removed all intake ducting and alternator (I already deleted my AIR on mine so I didn not have to remove any of that on my car) and disconnect battery
2. losen and removed all the old exhaust components along with spark plugs and wires (lots of PB blast to help loosen the bolts, even though i broke off ever single bolt holding the y pipe to the exhaust manifolds)
3. remove steering shaft, starter, and dipstick
4. I then did an EGR delete on my car, I thought it was going to be hard but it only took about 15 mins, just have patience.
5. I also did the motor mounts on mine so I took them out, replaced the bushings and SET them back in the car but I did not bolt them up in case I had to move the motor while putting in the headers.
6. The driver side comes in from the top with no problem whatsoever
7. Passenger from the bottom pretty easily
8. Tighten down motor mounts
9. Tighten down headers and install spark plugs, steering shaft, motor mounts, starter and dipstick
10. Y pipe- This was a bi*ch for me because my I pipe on the GMMG exhaust was the same diameter as the Y pipe so I had to get it swelled out just a bit, after that it slid on like butta
11. before installing the alternator and hooking the battery back up, go over the car 3-4 maybe even 5 more times to make sure everything is tight, no wires are touching the headers and all the connectors are connected
12. connect battery, get in car, turn key, and listen to the audible sex which is now resonating from your exhaust
BTW, if you plan to do it in your driveway, make sure you get the car HIGH off the ground. I did mine in my shop and had the rear on jackstands as high as they would go and then had the front higher than that on taller jackstands.
Here is a short SHORT step by step on how I did mine:
1. removed all intake ducting and alternator (I already deleted my AIR on mine so I didn not have to remove any of that on my car) and disconnect battery
2. losen and removed all the old exhaust components along with spark plugs and wires (lots of PB blast to help loosen the bolts, even though i broke off ever single bolt holding the y pipe to the exhaust manifolds)
3. remove steering shaft, starter, and dipstick
4. I then did an EGR delete on my car, I thought it was going to be hard but it only took about 15 mins, just have patience.
5. I also did the motor mounts on mine so I took them out, replaced the bushings and SET them back in the car but I did not bolt them up in case I had to move the motor while putting in the headers.
6. The driver side comes in from the top with no problem whatsoever
7. Passenger from the bottom pretty easily
8. Tighten down motor mounts
9. Tighten down headers and install spark plugs, steering shaft, motor mounts, starter and dipstick
10. Y pipe- This was a bi*ch for me because my I pipe on the GMMG exhaust was the same diameter as the Y pipe so I had to get it swelled out just a bit, after that it slid on like butta
11. before installing the alternator and hooking the battery back up, go over the car 3-4 maybe even 5 more times to make sure everything is tight, no wires are touching the headers and all the connectors are connected
12. connect battery, get in car, turn key, and listen to the audible sex which is now resonating from your exhaust
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