94FormulaV8

Just bought a 94 Formula for $2200.

It has 221,xxx miles on the body.

And a Newer motor/trans (unknown miles on motor/trans).

I bought it from its second owner.

Also, the low coolant light is on, but the coolant looks full. Why???

Here is my To Do List:

Oil Change (synthetic or no?)
Coolant Flush
Tune Up (plugs, wires, etc...)
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Transmission Service (should I do that because I dont know how many miles the transmission has on it or when the last time it was serviced?)

What else should I do? Thanks!

Also, should I replace the opti and water pump even it is running fine?

6SpdLT1Z

Definitely a good start.

Check the color/smell of the transmission fluid that may help you decide if you should replace or not. This may varry depending if you have a manual or auto as well.

I would recommend staying with the same type of oil as the previous owner ran. My car has had synthetic from the factory, I dont think id want to switch from conventional to synth.

One other idea is to flush the differential fluid.

I'm a fan of the "if it aint broke dont fix it" saying. If the opti/waterpump works why spend the money? Its one thing to buy a new waterpump when replacing the opti but to go in there and replace just because? I wouldn't.

97z28k&N

the "low coolant" light is a command annoyance on these cars. The sensor is prone to failure, setting the light off. It does NOT go through the PCM. You can clean/ replace the sensor, or do what I did and just unplug the low coolant sensor (located on the back left side of the radiator).


Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

parkers Z28

How does the car ride?? maybe install new shocks ,check out the wheel bearings ,and every thing in the front end!!!
just my opinion but I would not unplug the low coolant sensor it gives you the heads up
your water level is getting low and if you don't add water you are going to over heat !!!!
costing you a lot more than $50 dollars

6SpdLT1Z

I don't see the harm of unplugging it if it doesn't work. You'll obviously want to keep an eye on temperature/coolant leaks/coolant level.

Either way, the best and correct option would be to clean/replace the coolant level sensor. Details on how to do that can be found here.

bobdec

I agree, fix it.. IMO, a functioning low coolant indicator (radiator down 3 inches) tells you in advance that you're heading towards a high temp situation. If leak is fast, probably not much help, but if leak is slower, it gives enough time to add coolant or get'er home before the red light comes on. If leak is water pump drip hole, it may save an OPTI. On these LT1's OT red light is super bad news w/aluminum heads, well worth the $50.00 bucks early warning .

Injuneer

Oill change to include oil filter.

Check the PCV valve.

Check the vent line from the throttle body to the passenger side valve cover for oil buildup. Also check under the cover plate on the throttle body for oil buildup.

Flush the brake fluid.

Clean the MAF sensor.

Clean the throttle body.

Check serpentine belt for wear.

Check level in power steering reservoir.

Check the suspension and u-joints for grease fittings. From the factory, the car had no grease fittings, but replacement ball joints or u-joints may have fittings.

Have it scanned for codes, or use free scanning/data logging software to analyze for engine problems:

TTS Power Systems

There are several of us who can help you interpret the data log.

There is no problem created by switching back and forth between conventional and synthetic motor oils, except..... even the synthetic manufacturers will acknowledge the possibility that the strong detergents in the synthetic will strip away deposits on seals and, combined with the reduced molecular size of synthetics, allow the seals to leak IF THEY ARE WORN.