I have yet to figure this out. The car will idle smooth on a cold start and easy driving I get about 1 mile and stop for a light. It idles for about 10 seconds, no surge, no pop it just dies. Cranks right back up.

I've checked for vacuum leaks and loose connections. The only thing that bothers me is that this car has had the engine rebuilt by the previous owner and they did a crappy job pulling it out and there a ton of butt connectors on sensors. Wires are routed where they really shouldn't be, etc.
Is it possible that I can solder these up and shrink tube them and help myself out or would I be better off finding another harness? Things like IAC, IAT, temp sensor, TPS, none at the opti but there is something going on w/ a few ground wires. How sensitive are these sensors that a decent soldering would allow them to work properly? I just don't want to spend a couple of hours doing this for nothing.

 

Best idea would be to put some scan software on it, like TTS DataMaster, and log the operating conditions so you can check the output of all the sensors under the operating conditions that cause it to stall.

 

While I'm waiting on a data cable to come in I think I've almost got this figured out.

The car has a viper alarm w/ remote start. I think its the culprit.

w/ the car running it will idle for 8 mins and just flat out die. then if i lock and unlock the alarm it fires right up. its like its cutting power to the ignition. Once I figure out how this thing is spliced in its coming out.

The only reason i picked this car up was because it wasn't running so it was dirt cheap so its worth the hassle. so the chase continues.

 

prly has somethin to do with the vats bypass on the remote start. so watch for that when u start ripping stuff out make sure the vats gets hooked back up, or put a resistor in to permanently bypass it

 

So I really never figured out the won't stay running issue but the hacked up wiring still has some issues. The wires at the injector clips is bare and looks to be in really bad shape. I'm not sure if there is even enough material there for me to just solder/shrink wrap the existing parts.
Also there is a 4 pin plug on the passenger side of the intake between #4&6 injectors the top wire is red and someone has spliced a purple wire from the driver's side fender area into it. All I can assume is that they have this as a key on for the fans because w/ that disconnected the fans won't kick on. My question is what is the 2 wire pair of purple and grey for? These are just laying on the driver's shock tower. I looked at shoebox's wiring pictures and they help a little but aren't detailed enough to narrow it down for me. Are there a few other places to look? Everything is hooked up as far as I can see so thats really throwing me off.

Thanks.


Also, ran datamaster and all I see that's out of whack is that the driver's O2 goes from 800 to 61 back up to 800. Until I get my injector plugs fixed i'm not even going to worry about that.

 

What are the 4 wire colors in the 4-pin connector? What color and shape is the 4-pin connector? Is it just laying on the side of the manifold, or is it attached to some kind of clip? Possibly a light gray connector, hooked to the same bracket that holds the EVAP purge solenoid? If so, that is the Opti harness, and the connector is called the "ignition system test connector".

Where does the 2-wire purple and grey pair come in? Is this the connector that has the purple wire jumpered to the red wire on the 4-pin connector on the passenger side of the intake? If so, what color and shape is the 2-pin connector? Is there anything holding it on top of the driver's side shock tower?

You indicate the driver's side O2 sensor has voltage readings that are jumping up and down. If they are changing rapidly, up and down, ~9 times per second, and the PCM is in closed loop, that's the way the O2 sensors are supposed to work. What is the passenger side sensor reading, when the driver's side is switching between rich and lean?

 

this is the flat 4 wire connector w/ 2 reds and i can't tell what the other colors are, grey and yellow/natural? all the wires are really badly discolored.
It looks like it was originally clipped to a bracket that has long since been broken. It is not an open connector like an access port or anything like that. I was assuming that the wire was hot to tell the computer that the car was running(over simplified), so they did that instead of setting up a relay for the fans when the temp sensor failed.
Its only 2 wires in a small wire loom draped over the driver's side strut tower. the purple isn't hot key on or off but the grey has about 4 volts even w/ key off. The purple is jumpered to the red but there is no connector on these 2. its been cut off. what gets me is nothing is missing a connection. It looks like somethign they cut up putting the alarm system in.
passenger side just stays stable around 800 it moves some but not as rapidly as the other. But yes, datamaster was indicating closed loop at that time, while in open loop they read much slower.

Again, good info and questions. I'll get this this figured out yet. Probably w/ the help of a new harness. The car was too good of a deal to pass on and these little gremlins are sucking the fun out of wanting to work on it.

 

The Opti harness test connector has 4 wires:

A - Red/black - low resolution signal - 0-5V varies
B - purple white on the Opti side, purple/white or lt blue/black on the PCM side - high resolution signal - 0-5V varies
C - Red - Opti ignition feed - 12V
D - Pink/Black - Opti reference - ground

Sounds like someone might have tapped into the Opti power supply wire.

Shoebox has a photo of it:

http://shbox.com/1/evap_sol.jpg