kallcium

I did a search on this and found many different things but thought I should ask anyways. My compressor had what you would call a catistrophic failure. It makes a grinding noise. I am going to change it and the condensor (since I was told it can never really be flushed out), the drier and the oriface tube. The only parts I am going to keep are the hoses and evaporator since I was told these can be flushed satifactorily. Now I really can't afford a lot. Midas told me over $1000. Well I was able to find a reman autozone compressor ( I know this is not ideal and am better off with a new but I can't afford that and figured reman is better than used) Anyways the reman compressor was $185, I got a new condensor for $106, new drier for $48 and oriface tube for $3. So all together I cot everything for under $400 which they would have charged me more for just the compressor.

Now I want to install these myself because of the cost of labor but not sure on the flushing of the remaining components. I can get some flush and a pressure flush can from NAPA. So can I flush it with all the bad parts installed or since the compressor is broke will it even circulate this or does this case require a special machine. I don't want to put the new parts on and contaminate these by flushing after they are installed. If I can't flush in this way can I flush the hoses and evaporator core individually when out of the car? How would I do this. I do have an air compressor and can use that air gun with a rubber end on each hose and the evaporator. I have heard soaking in brake cleaner or alcohol or even flush then sending the compressed air through may work, will it be good enough? Could I also just install all the components but not connect any hoses and have a professional flush that way? Or they probally wont do it?

Now I am going to have a professional vaccum the system and fill it. Will it be safe to drive the car to them with the compressor installed and the belt going. I don't want to burn up the compressor with no oil in it. I believe that the clutch wont engage so if I'm right it wont spin and it should be alright. I will leave the connector undone just incase. I also will install the drier in its spot but leave the lines unconnected and the caps on. Will that be satisfactory? Thanks for the help! ~ Erik

kallcium

Anybody?

ss00

First, remove all of the components that you aren't going to reuse. Then you can use the can of flush, and flush out the hoses and evaperator separately. Next, install the new components using new refrigerant safe O rings on all connections. Lubricate the O rings with the proper refrigerant oil as you install them. Next, you need to get ahold of a service manual for your vehicle and find out how much refrigerant oil you need to put into each one of the new compoents, including the compressor, accumulator, and condenser. Next, the compressor needs to be turned over by hand using the proper spanner wrench after the oil is added and before it is hooked up. You will be safe to drive it to the service center with the electrical connector on the compressor unplugged. I would not depend on the service center to replace the O rings and add the oil. Most are too lazy to look up the proper amont of oil to use for each replaced component and most don't stock all of the correct sizes of refrigerant safe O rings. Remember, you bought and installed the parts, so there will be no warranty on the job even it they mess up, and you'll be out the money for the ruined parts. So do as much as you can yourself so you are sure it is done right.

As an alternative to taking it to the service center for evacuation and charging, go online, read up, take the easy test available at a number of sites online, and get your EPA certification for automotive A/C repairs. The open book test is about $15.00. Now you are legal to do your own work on R-12 systems and R-134A systems. Go to Harbor Freight, for $9.99, buy the refrigeration evacuation box you hook up to your compressor that works on a Venturi effect and buy a set of gages. Pull 29" of vacuum on the system for 45 minutes. Then close the valve on the gage set and turn off the compressor, and make sure your system holds the 29" of vacuum for 15 minutes. If it does, you have no leaks, so you can go ahead and add the proper charge of refrigerant.

That way you learned A/C theory, have the pride of doing the job yourself, and didn't give someone else the opportunity to mess up your car.....and you are even legal with the EPA.

Dave89IROC

this should be plenty, try to back flush(reverse of normal flow) if you can
hook everything up, the compressor won't spin with no freon in the system anyway, but just to be safe, pull the relay
then take it in, let them know there is no oil in the system, and make sure they add the needed amount

kallcium

Thanks guys. I really appricate this!

BlkLT1Z28

Where is the orifice tube at on a 4th gen? I dont think mine has one, someone might have taken it out.

edit: they dont have one.