this is for my '35. I am probably getting one of street and performance's air cleaners, but how do i fit the intake air temp sensor, maf sensor and opti plug (blue elbow) that were in the stock elbow into the aftermarket air cleaner? are all three of those things absolutely necessary or is there any way to eliminate or maybe move any one of them? thanks

 

If you don't have room or the blue elbow for the Opti vent line, you could attach a small air filter (e.g. like an oil breather) directly to the line and mount it anywhere you wanted. The Opti needs filtered air. This will cause a minor "vacuum leak", because the air that flows through the Opti eventually ends up in the combustion chamber. That's why they put the connection after the MAF sensor. The PCM is capable of adjusting for the small vacuum leak, using the long term fuel corrections.

You could tune the PCM to run in speed-density mode, rather than in mass air flow mode. That would eliminate the MAF sensor, but it would mean that any future modifications that affect the engine's breathing capability would required tuning the PCM's volumetric efficiency tables.

The inlet air temp sensor can go anywhere in the intake tract. In the past, I've drilled the metal end cap of a K&N filter, added a rubber grommet, and pushed the IAT sensor into the end cap. If you keep the MAF sensor, the location of the IAT sensor becomes less critical, as long as it represents the true temp of the air reaching the inlet tract. If you opt for a speed-density tune, IAT becomes very critical and the sensor has to be in the main stream of air flowing through the throttle body.

 

I am probably least concerned about the opti vent since i was pretty sure I could drill a small hole, use a rubber grommet and put it in there. when you say like an oil breather do you mean actually using one or does anyone sell a smaller filter?

I think I might keep the MAF...no sense adding headaches for no real reason other than to eliminate one wire. i have also already had a tune to eliminate hopefully everything i need to so i'd like not to pay for another. am I able to turn the maf sensor 90* so the connection goes in from the side instead of the top or does that mess it up? i think i sold my maf sensor a while back though

what exactly is the end cap? It sounds like I could just drill anywhere and add a grommet in order for it to read correctly. I wouldn't even be able to add this thing very far from the throttle body because this air cleaner is literally just a filter stuck on the throttle body...I'm not even sure if i have room to add the inlet air temp sensor, but I am still waiting on some more info from street and performance. I also already sold my intake elbow WITH the IAT sensor

thank you!

 

By referencing a "breather", I was simply indicating the typical size of the filter to use.... like the one that comes on the typical valve cover breather.

http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm



The "end cap" is the metal piece that covers the end of a K&N cone or oval filter. In my case, the filter was hidden in the fender, so it didn't matter that I put a hole in the end cap and stuck a sensor in it. I would assume the STreet & Performance filter has a polished end cap, so you don't want to drill a hole in that. But there would likely be a metal plate on the opposite side, where the opening that goes to the throttle body is located.

 

I see...on the back side of the air cleaner. I was really only thinking of a way to get it in the "neck" area that attaches to the TB. Where you suggest could work though thanks.

Does the orientation of the MAF sensor matter? Can I attach it to the TB 90* from stock...basically so the sensor plug would be down lower and on the side.

EDIT: I got a hold of S&P and the air cleaner will not fit when using MAF so I have to either convert to speed density or fab up some sort of intake that will look terrible under the hood of a street rod. I will have to do some research on speed density, but he said with a bigger cam I would have to use a MAF sensor? Any truth to that? It will be a stock cam for now, but a mild cam is definately in the plans down the road. I would think I would just need another tune like you said earlier. the air cleaner also comes with two threaded holes in back. aparently an LT5 intake air temp sensor threads in so he suggests i use that...i assume it is compatible..

Thanks!

 

the more i think about it if i am going to convert to speed density i should ditch this obdII computer for an obdI and get some software. i don't want to have to keep sending this computer out to be tuned. do i actually have to know what i'm doing to tune the pcm's volumetric efficiency tables?

 

Have you seen the layout of the air/filter box/MAF/flexible connector/throttle body on the LT1 WS6 models? Something like that is possible.

If you make the layout of the air filter/MAF/throttle body symmetrical (centered) it doesn't matter if you rotate the MAF sensor.

You do not need an MAF sensor to run a decent cam. I run speed-density with a 230/242 114LSA 0.590/0.590 cam. It has to be tuned specifically for the cam.

There's a program called VEMaster that will help you adjust the VE tables, but I have never used it. Check out the "Computer Diagnostics and Programming" forum.... lots of help there. I don't run a stoc PCM, so my tuning is a bit more straight-forward than the factory PCM tune.

This is the WS6 style filter setup. The MAF would go into the outlet of the air box, where I have a black rubber filler piece with 2 clamps on it.

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo.../DCP03746a.jpg

 

unfortunetely i don't think i have near enough space b/w the throttle body and fan/radiator to use that WS6 set up. I wouldn't have the option of running that intake over the radiator in this car like an f fody because the engine sits so low in the frame compared to the top of the radiator.

I think my only two options are to use this S&P filter with speed density or make a short elbow and attach a cone filter with the MAF. based on looks alone I would probably have to go with the first option.

so do you think with speed density there is enough tuning that will have to be done with mods to warrent switching to obd1? i have had it tuned to eliminate emissions, anti theft, etc, now again to switch to speed density and then again in the future for a cam and whatever else. probably won't go much further than just a cam though...i'm not one for toying with things too much and this is just a cruiser.