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Easier to bring an LT1 or Fox into 12s

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 07:14 AM
  #31  
micfly83's Avatar
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From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by Capn Pete
You need the DRIVER mod, not more power!!! Dude, I've got a buddy (member on this board) who drove his bone-stock '97 Z28 to a 13.7 @ 100 . Sorry, he's got a shifter in it . You need to learn to race first, before you need a "12-second car" ... because all you'll have is a 12-second car with a 14-second driver . This isn't meant to flame you, just saying that you have a car capable of 13's, and you barely got out of the 15's ... practise the launch, and shifting!!
Oh trust me I know

That was my first time ever racing and I had no idea what I was doing.
(And on top of that my tires in the back are completely bald and I later found out that they were aired up to 40psi )

Just like the first time I got my Jeep I burried it in about 3 ft of mud because I didn't know about "ruts"

Its gonna take practice.

Maybe I should be asking "is it easier to bring a fox or LT1 in the 9s", so then i'll be able to run 12s.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 07:23 AM
  #32  
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From: Oshawa - Home of the 5th-gen


Actually, in regards to your tires, contrary to "popular belief", normal street radials often work BETTER when they're pumped up (to maybe ~35-36 psi) than when they're deflated to 25 psi or less. Problem is, deflating them, they'll "cup" in the middle, whereas pumped up, it keeps the tread flatter (more contact patch) ... you don't get much "wrinkle effect" deflating a radial tire anyway.

Your fronts should definitely be pumped up as well (less rolling resistance), and the rears will benefit from the same thing.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:16 AM
  #33  
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From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by Capn Pete


Actually, in regards to your tires, contrary to "popular belief", normal street radials often work BETTER when they're pumped up (to maybe ~35-36 psi) than when they're deflated to 25 psi or less. Problem is, deflating them, they'll "cup" in the middle, whereas pumped up, it keeps the tread flatter (more contact patch) ... you don't get much "wrinkle effect" deflating a radial tire anyway.

Your fronts should definitely be pumped up as well (less rolling resistance), and the rears will benefit from the same thing.
Visually inspecting the tires the tread was all down in the middle and not so bad on the outsides. The previous owner probably did this to get good gas mileage.

What about taking off the swaybars?

I know my YJ ran great without swaybars, but it had a nice stiff lift, so rolling from side to side wasn't an issue.

How will the street manners be?
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:53 AM
  #34  
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From: Aurora, IL
Originally Posted by micfly83
Visually inspecting the tires the tread was all down in the middle and not so bad on the outsides. The previous owner probably did this to get good gas mileage.

What about taking off the swaybars?

I know my YJ ran great without swaybars, but it had a nice stiff lift, so rolling from side to side wasn't an issue.

How will the street manners be?
I wouldn't remove the rear swaybar at all. As for the front, it is pretty common to remove or unbolt one side to aid in traction at the track. As for street manners, you may not be able to carve corners like you used to.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:59 AM
  #35  
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From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by 2000GTP
I wouldn't remove the rear swaybar at all. As for the front, it is pretty common to remove or unbolt one side to aid in traction at the track. As for street manners, you may not be able to carve corners like you used to.
Alright cool I may try that

Thanks for your help
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 10:56 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by micfly83
Oh trust me I know


Maybe I should be asking "is it easier to bring a fox or LT1 in the 9s", so then i'll be able to run 12s.
LMAOOOO
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 11:35 AM
  #37  
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From: Motor City
sell it for 6800-7000 and buy a stock ls1...12s
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