122.76 max HP, 154.99 max TQ

I do have a bad torque converter and a few other transmission issues. But I had no idea, the tranny would take away that much power.

If I am 160 stock at the flywheel, shouldn't I be around 135 to the wheels?

With my mods, what do you think I should have to the wheels?

 

At first I thought those numbers were with a V8.

The transmission usually takes away 40 horsepower.

 

Autos take away about 20%. So that would put you at about 146 flywheel hp.

 

An A4 transmission takes on average 15% of power. An M6 takes 12-13% which is why they have better numbers. What type of dyno were you on and what were the conditions that day? There can me varibles that can make those numbers. Also, what makes you think you have a "bad torque converter"?

 

Because a shop diagnosed it as so, as well as slight slippage between 1st and second gear. It was a dynojet. Run conditions 63.54*, humidity 17%.

Please tell me I actually have 20 more to the wheels.

 

Under those conditions I wouldn't think theres much more in it. What was the A/F ratio?

 

With 144K on the clock is it possible that his valvetrain is wore, costing him a few more ponies than it should?

 

Air/Fuel: 15.24 max, 11.44 min in one run, 14.65 max, 11.57 min another run.

What would better conditions be? On a hotter day?

 

Could you post up a dyno graph.

 

Yea, gimme a day or so to scan it. I have people over and only have a few min. to post here and there.

 

What kind of dyno was it? Different types produce higher or lower results than others.

You asked if a hotter day is a better condition. No, you want the coldest, driest air, with the maximum barometric pressure. But your dyno sheet should be marked "SAE" or "Standard" corrected, and that eliminate the affects of weather.

While you may see a 15.2 or 14.6:1 A/F ratio on the graph, I'm willing to bet that's at low RPM, before they went WOT. That's the typical A/F ratio for closed loop control. When you go WOT, you will probably want something closer to 12.8-13.2:1. Your 11.4 and 11.5 are too rich, and will reduce power. You have to look at the entire A/F curve to tell anything really meaningful.

I'd estimate the TOTAL driveline losses for a healthy A4 at closer to 18% for a lower power setup like the V6. There's a fixed component of drivetrain loss due to inertia of the components, and that's in the range of 18-20HP for a 4th Gen drivetrain. Then there's a friction component of loss that's proportional to the power being transmitted. Those two added together will account for the 18% loss, and that would bring you down to about 130HP assuming stock flywheel HP. A slipping trans will eat up a lot more, so it all seems to shake out.

There is no fixed 40HP loss in the transmission. Its total drivetrain loss you need to look at, and its not a "fixed" number.

 

15.24 is extremely lean which would be robbing power, but if it made its way to 11.44 it became a tiny bit rich. What was the average for the a/f?

 

Scanned Dyno sheets:

Page1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Untitled-1.jpg

Page2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...dynosheet2.jpg

Page3
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...dynosheet3.jpg

What would cause me to be running rich? Someone once told me not to put a 160* stat in my car, because it would run too rich. My car's been stalling now and then at low rpms, and despite the fact that a shop says they fixed the Idle Air Control settings, it did it again yesterday. Do you think I'm running too cool?

 

Its a Dynojet. It's SAE corrected, which is more conservative than "standard" corrected.

The A/F ratio is exactly what I told you it was. The 14 and 15:1 ratios are at closed loop, part load, before they go WOT. That is completely normal. When they floor it, it goes to under 12.0:1. That is too rich. I'd guess you would pick up about 10HP simply by leaning it out to 12.8-13.2:1

 

How do I do that? PCM tuning? I'll be getting a 180* stat to see how that works out.