2QUIK6

Well, I just finished dropping my tank in the 95 TA for a fuel pump replacement...for those not wanting to cut the hole, here's a few tips.
I have a lift, so that helps, but here's some tips to make it not so bad. I did not have to completely remove the rearend.
1) With a jack under the rear, unbolt the lower bolt on the shocks and remove rear wheels.
2) Unplug the pump wires and ABS brake plug jst in front of the driver side wheel.
3) Take out the single bolt the holds the brake line to the body right where the rubber line meets the steel line, this gives you the extra length so you don't have to disconnect the brake line and then have to bleed it.
4) Unbolt the front of the torque arm at the tranny, otherwise it will not let the rear down low enough. Just let the TA go up and touch the floor board. Also remove the panhard rod and brace, and only the end links to the sway bar. Leave the emergengy brake lines, but remove the 2 bolts in the differential holding them in place...this gives them more room to lower the rear lower without tugging on them.
5) I then lowered the rear down as far as it would go so that the brake line just starts to tug on the steel line, it will move another inch or 2 and pull the steel line, it won't hurt anything.
6) Once the rear is as low as it can go, I took some steel wire and tied the rear end end using the holes in the rear fender wells/body.
See pics.
7) Once the straps were removed holding the tank, remove all the lines at the top rear of the tank and lower it down till the neck starts to bind in the opening, then move the passenger side of the tank forward and over the rear axle, the neck will then slide right out.

Took me about 2-3 hours to get the tank out I am currently letting the glue dry on the bucket top...hopefully about 3 more hours and I'll be done.

Here's some pics to give you an idea how low you have to get the rear and the steel wire holding it up tied thru the body/fenderwell holes.
http://hometown.aol.com/onebadwskier.../95tatank1.jpg
http://hometown.aol.com/onebadwskier.../95tatank2.jpg
http://hometown.aol.com/onebadwskier.../95tatank3.jpg

96badbird

so glad you wrote this... im doing this today actully and im stuck. ive undone the straps but my tank wont budge. theres nothing holding it from the bottom. any advice im desparate

2QUIK6

Sorry , been out in the garage, but you have to kind of pry the tank down once the starps are completely out of the way, I had to bend the straps slightly towards the back of the car, but a little pry and the tank should come loose, its wedged up there pretty good and the tape foam stuff becomes sticky over time.
Make sure all the wires are out of the way at the back too. You can see in my pics just how low the axle needs to be, I don't think it would have came out if it weren't that low. It is a trick to get out, but like I said, move the pass side of the tank forward and over the axle and the neck will almost fall right out...just the reverse to get it back in, don;t force it too much as that forcing puts pressure on the neck.

I just finished mine and fired it up, all is good, I'll fill the tank and drive it tomorrow, didn't want that freshly glued bucket to get submerged in gas for 24 hrs.

shoebox

Doesn't look so bad. What about the exhaust system?

2QUIK6

I cut it about 1 foot in front of the rear axle to remove the entire rear as one piece. There's a little spot where the floor raises up at that location so it gave me just enough room to weld it back together there. Once cut, just slide the exhaust forward to get it out of the stock hangers at the rear then it just comes right out if the axle is already lowered. For those without a welder, you could use a strap band clamp as well. I'm going to be ripping all the exhaust back out in a few weeks when I do the header install and convert to true duals.