Car dead...Wont start
Car dead...Wont start
I got a new starter because the old one looked in bad shape and the solenoid wouldnt pull in also.....So now I am stuck I havent had the codes pulled and my car is sitting on stands now because of the brake problem I stated in another thread
...I am gonna have to get a code reader I guess so I can pull the codes but I will tell you this If I energize the solenoid the car will start and run fine but it will not send power to the solenoid with the keyswitch
...I am gonna have to get a code reader I guess so I can pull the codes but I will tell you this If I energize the solenoid the car will start and run fine but it will not send power to the solenoid with the keyswitch
Last edited by Sweetz28_72; Mar 21, 2008 at 08:24 PM.
Just a thought... check the ignition switch that's bolted about mid-way down the steering column. Mine burned out (actually melted) a couple of years ago and it was dead like yours.
This is the bracket it's mounted to (steering column has been removed).

And this is the melted connector to the switch. If I remember correctly, there are actually two connectors going to the switch. The other one not shown has some 3-4 heavy gauge wires on it.
This is the bracket it's mounted to (steering column has been removed).

And this is the melted connector to the switch. If I remember correctly, there are actually two connectors going to the switch. The other one not shown has some 3-4 heavy gauge wires on it.
Last edited by euforia51; Mar 21, 2008 at 11:57 PM.
Just a thought... check the ignition switch that's bolted about mid-way down the steering column. Mine burned out (actually melted) a couple of years ago and it was dead like yours.
This is the bracket it's mounted to (steering column has been removed).

And this is the melted connector to the switch. If I remember correctly, there are actually two connectors going to the switch. The other one not shown has some 3-4 heavy gauge wires on it.

This is the bracket it's mounted to (steering column has been removed).

And this is the melted connector to the switch. If I remember correctly, there are actually two connectors going to the switch. The other one not shown has some 3-4 heavy gauge wires on it.

Thanks I will check that....I had the same problem you had with it back a couple of years ago when I owned it the first time, burnt the same wires and everything I had to get a new switch and cut that connector off and install new terminals on it and that got it up and going

But right now, I was wondering since its been awhile if there is a breakdown of the starting circuit....hmmmn I wonder if that shoebox link has anything?
Is there anyway to pull the codes on the 95fbodies without a scantool? I had a real nice scantool but the screen got left in the sun and is ruined now
so I would have to go borrow one now I guess.....
so I would have to go borrow one now I guess.....
No, you need a "real" OBD-I scanner (with an adapter plug for the 95's 16-pin connector) to pull the codes. But, if the engine runs fine after you jumper the solenoid, its not an engine problem that would set codes. The PCM doesn't monitor anything other than the PASS-key system, with regards to starting.
Shoebox has everything you need:
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/schematics_wiring.html
Shoebox has everything you need:
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/schematics_wiring.html
Last edited by Injuneer; Mar 22, 2008 at 11:24 AM.
No, you need a "real" OBD-I scanner (with an adapter plug for the 95's 16-pin connector) to pull the codes. But, if the engine runs fine after you jumper the solenoid, its not an engine problem that would set codes. The PCM doesn't monitor anything other than the PASS-key system, with regards to starting.
Shoebox has everything you need:
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic.jpg
Shoebox has everything you need:
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic.jpg
The scanner I had was a real nice it covered all OBD-1 cars and had different modules for different makers, I will have to pull it out and see if my snapon guy can get it repaired for cheap....lol I paid almost $300 for it
(3 years ago)
Fixed
Well finally I got a few more minutes to work on the Z....Well I used a schematic I got from Shoebox and found that the +yellow wire that comes from the Keyswitch and goes directly to the TDR(theft Deterant Relay) had lost voltage between itself(keyswitch) and the TDR...........For some reason the previous owner had cut into that wire and soldiered it back together only thing is he didn't actually soldier them back together LOL....I repaired the wires with heat-shrink butt terminal and everything is good
....Well except my rear brakes still not working

....Well except my rear brakes still not working
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