Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
#16
Re: Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
Okay I think i got it this time...
I found these two buggers hiding to the right of the glove box:
Popping open the one with the thick wires, i found this:
If this is actually the VATS module, it would make sense to me that it was bad, since the time the car was actually trying to start, it was making a strange clicking noise from somewhere near the glove compartment. Im guessing that was the relay shorting out?
I found these two buggers hiding to the right of the glove box:
Popping open the one with the thick wires, i found this:
If this is actually the VATS module, it would make sense to me that it was bad, since the time the car was actually trying to start, it was making a strange clicking noise from somewhere near the glove compartment. Im guessing that was the relay shorting out?
#18
Re: Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
Can you help me out on this Shoebox?
I spliced the yellow and purple wires together, still nothing
im going nuts.
I spliced the yellow and purple wires together, still nothing
im going nuts.
Last edited by Valkyn71; 07-13-2006 at 09:18 AM.
#19
Re: Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
If you spliced the yellow and purple wires together and there was no change, then the relay is not the problem (that is the relay, not the VATS module). Also, you should get 12v on the yellow wire from the ign switch when it is in the START position. Sounds like an ignition switch problem (adjustment, maybe) or the connection to it.
#20
Re: Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
I pulled the steering column again checked to make sure the ignition switch was in the right position. I re-installed it as shown in this picture: http://shbox.com/ignsw/locktn.jpg
Car still wasnt doing anything, so i tested the voltage at the red wire going into the ignition switch, 12 volts, great. I then re-installed the two wiring blocks into the ignition switch. I tested the voltage at the yellow wire when the key was in the "start" position, nothing.
So either my new ignition switch is bad, or the "lock" position isnt correct.
Car still wasnt doing anything, so i tested the voltage at the red wire going into the ignition switch, 12 volts, great. I then re-installed the two wiring blocks into the ignition switch. I tested the voltage at the yellow wire when the key was in the "start" position, nothing.
So either my new ignition switch is bad, or the "lock" position isnt correct.
#21
Re: Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
I just pulled the switch out, hooked it up to a battery so it had juice, and tried it in every position, testing for power at the prong that the yellow wire connects to.
No position had ANY post at the yellow wire, one had power at every other prong but 3.
So either my switch is bad, or im looking for the wrong thing.
No position had ANY post at the yellow wire, one had power at every other prong but 3.
So either my switch is bad, or im looking for the wrong thing.
#22
Re: Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
So i jumped across the switch, stright from the red wire to the yellow, and the car cranked right over.
Do i have a bad switch? Or does it need power from more than just the red wire to enable the yellow?
Do i have a bad switch? Or does it need power from more than just the red wire to enable the yellow?
#23
Re: Bypassing VATS: Wiring locations
I know this is extremely old but I was curious as to what you did to fix your problem? If you could let me know I would greatly appreciate it because I am having the same problems that you where
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