Car is a 94 Z, I just bought it. I bypassed the VATS with a 510ohm resister (key code was 2). And yet the light is still on. Car starts everytime. Just want to get the light off. Oh, I have the stereo removed right now as well if that has anything to do with it.

Thanks,
Sean

 

Does the car have keyless entry? If so it has a very basic alarm system that is pissed about something.

Re'

 

I didnt get a key fob when I bought it, so I dont know. How can I find out if it suppost to have a fob or not? If so how do I program the fob?

Thanks,
Sean

 

Here's the location of the keyless entry reciever:

http://shbox.com/1/keyless_entry.jpg

Here's how to program the new clicker:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#1995keyless

 

Look for RPO code AU0 - Remote entry lock control.

 

Was the light on when you got the car?

If the tolerance on the resistor you bought was not that tight, 510 advertised ohms may not really be 510 ohms. 502 is the low limit and it might not meet that. Also make sure you did the bypass correctly.

Not all problems with VATS are related to the key pellet.

 

Yes the security light was on when I bought it.

Sean

 

I hate to bump this but I get a little lost with all this security crap on these cars.

I have a '94 V6 and the security light is constantly on (has been since I got it). Nothing with the starter-interlock circuit seems to be affected - it's just an annoying light. It does have the keyless brain but I received no fobs.

I once ohmed out the key's pellet and it was about right-on with the closest value in Shoebox's list.

Is the Security light likely an artifact of the keyless entry, or due to something else? Suggestions on how to get rid of it?

I'm sorry for the question - I know you guys beat this stuff often. I just haven't quite pieced together all the contingencies to reach a reasonable conclusion.

Thanks.

 

The security light has nothing to do with the keyless entry. If the light is on, the system is disabled and you have no protection.

http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html for info about the whole system.

 

I'm STILL having issues with this I got 3 different VATS keys made *because my car came with a knock out metal only key* and they are an EXACT cut but wont turn in the cylinder :'( Security light is still on.

Is changing the cylinder out much different than doing it on, say an 86 Camaro? I've rebuilt that column many times and am familier with it, but how much different is it with vats? just 2 wires I gotta unplug/make sure they're intact?