Pretty sure you are supposed to add it to the brake booster line while the engine is running.

 

i think it says then turn engine off?

 

Yes, do it with the engine running so it has a sucking force... Cover up the hole for a second with a finger to keep it from stalling and then start pouring. once you get half a can in there, stop and the engine will die. Connect the booster and wait 5 mins and then run it hard.
If your engine is extremely dirty inside, it may foul your plugs or o2 sensors. I didnt notice this as a problem. I pulled a few plugs out and they were fine. My o2s needed to be changed before the treatment anyways so i just figured that if i do it, ill put new o2s in eventually. I didnt notice any problems with them though. It probably only does this in rare cases.

 

alright then i will do that then. also do i add half to the crankcase and fuel when the car is running? i wouldn't imagine so so after i let it stall, put it in the crankcase and a full bottle in the fuel

 

Lucas Oil Treatment = Thumbs Down... I ran it and my Oil Pressure dropped too...

Lucas Tranny Treatment = Thumbs Down... My car's accelleration feels like total crap... I may need to get it flushed...

Lucas Gas Treatment = O.K. I notticed no difference in running it... I would prefer seafoam...

 

polydyn TX7 from polemer dynamics houston tx.
royal purple (ice)for cooling system,engine oil new caney,tx

 

Can you use Royal Purple coolant additive with GM dexcool?

 

i personnally wouldn't use anything but fuel injector cleaner , as far as additives go.
if your engine is taken care of it shouldn't need them, and if it's not taken care of you don't want them anyway, just start doing regular oil changes and trans tunes at the right times.
by adding additives to an engine with a lot of sludge, you will just loosen the sludge and plug the oil pickup , imho.
and i have also seen it happen. for transmissions ... if it's been sitting a long time and seems to slip, an additive may be ok to soften the seals.
if your considering something like slick 50 or similar ,that may be ok , but nothing that says it will clean the engine on a neglected engine....fwiw

 

I agree with shoebox and you man, You need to be really careful with additives. I generally don't use them either. I did use seafoam originally as an injector cleaner and tried it in my intake too since i had it. I wouldn't have bought it at the store just for that though. You need to take care of your engine in the first place. When i read some of the additives, the things they promise are way too good to be true.

Btw, rearend additive works from what i hear but you are supposed to use that anyways and its a gm part.

 

This is from "Popular Hot Rodding", MARCH 2005, PAGE 37.
"Oil Extreme oil additive has shown truly dramatic reductions in wear
in key places in the valvetrain and has, at least 90% of the time,
delivered between 5-9 lbs.-ft. more torque from friction reduction
in a v-8 application. TK7, the fuel additive, increases power by cutting
bore friction as, during the combustion cycle, it turns to a high-grade
synthetic lube. My A to B 500-hour wear test showed a minimum
of 600% reduction in bore and ring wear."
I think I am going to try these two.

 

eliminated valve tick on a dsm. that **** must be good. and you must be special becuse the dsmers have been trying to eliminate this for years and no one has done it yet. i have owned 12 dsms and all ticked and never went away nomatter what we did.

 

Exon techron fuel system treatment seems to work well. Its around 5 bucks a bottle and most of the dealerships use it to help with knocks and clean lifters and fuel injectors. Works well and you can feel it. I use it with every oil change.

Mothers mystery oil i have tried and it didnt impress me. Restore Engine restorer i have heard works quite well and it raises pressure.

 

the regular oil that you buy off the shelf has an specific amount of additives to control friction, wear, cleanliness, and oxidation. adding aftermarket additives to your oil can really mess up this formula and cause harm to your engine. also, altering the viscosity of your oil from the manufacturers recommendations isn't advised due to the fact that OEM systems are designed to pump a certain weight oil. you will get the best performance using SM grade oil of your manufacturers recommendation.

there is a reason you dont see commercials for zmax and prolong and slick 50 anymore, tests have proven that these products dont really work as advertised. i know of at least one test where slick 50 increased bearing wear by 90% over regular motor oil. oil additives are basically a joke and serve only to lighten your wallet.


fuel additives i'm not as informed on, although i would be awful weary of putting anything into my fuel system. as long as you run the correct grade of fuel and replace your fuel filter at recommended intervals, you should be fine.

 

thumbs up on this. had it in my 98 eclipse and now i have it in my 95 lt1 bird. i'd reccomend it.

 

Lucas oil worked wonders in my 97 Cavalier. It was like 5 horse in a bottle, but I tried it in the Z and it made the valves tick like crazy. I think it might have been a little too thick for the lifters. It should have diluted, though.

B&M-trick shift tranny fluid. It has friction modifiers, but it might overheat your tranny.