I have had an ongoing issue on my 93 Z28 when trying to start the car that has gotten worse with time. The issue is that typically when I press the clutch pedal and turn the key to start, I will get a “click” from what sounds like the starter relay, and the car will not crank. The weird thing is that if I leave the key in the start position, and continue to press/release the clutch pedal, the car will eventually crank and start. Sometimes it starts on the first try, sometimes it takes up to 30 tries. The battery is a few years old and measured 12.95V the last time I checked it. Here are the things that I have replaced over the last few years trying to solve this issue:

• Replaced ignition starter switch
• Bypass VATS ignition key pellet by adding correct resistor
• Replaced starter – old starter tested good afterwards
• Replaced starter relay
• Replaced clutch safety switch
• Replaced both battery cables

I originally had thought this was a VATS issue, but if the starter relay is clicking, I’m wondering if there is an issue with my replacement starter? Has anyone else encountered this scenario?

 

Wild guess - The 1993 wiring diagram shows there are two black ground wires round wires from the battery to G100 (bolted to right side of engine, same bolt used for A/C compressor), and G101 (top of right hand shock tower, near red plastic box - one of three rings on the bolt). Have you checked those? Although if they were loose or corroded, it would affect things other then the starter as well.

http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_93.jpg

When I had a problem similar to yours, with the original starter, it had some dead windings, and would often only respond to multiple turns of the key to "START". Dealer replaced the starter under the original warranty. (long time ago....)

 

When I replaced the ground battery cable, I used my dremel to clean up G100/G101 before putting the cable back on. The only other issue I have on in the car is an intermittent ABS INOP, which comes up with code 63 Right Front ABS Motor Circuit Shorted, and also a 36 which is Low System Voltage. I have no idea how far back those codes go b/c they are stored in the history.

Interesting that you similar issue that turned out to be the starter. Sounds like the starter is the next place to check. I should have a warranty on the new one. I may put my old one back in b/c I never tried that one with a number of those parts replaced. Plus then I can get the warranty replacement of the new one.