rclearyiii

There is no doubt about it that the wire is grounded. If it is not grounded external to the versafueler then there must be a malfunction within the versafueler itself. Have you checked the connections from the versafueler to the pcm to ensure there are no issues as well?

Injuneer

Generally not a good idea to post the same question on two different forums, since people may be wasting their time duplicating information you've already received on the other thread. Pick one forum, and post there.

Injuneer

Merging the two threads......

Purple Poncho

My apologies.

MikeGyver

so did u win?

10secz

FWIW, here is my reply to the email I received from the OP:

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The safest way to test is with what is called a "noid light", which is just a bulb that illuminates when the injector is turned on.

Unplug all 8 injector connectors.
Plug the noid light into the first injector connector.
Crank the engine and watch for noid light flashes.
Move on to the next injector.

If the noid light is on all the time, the injector control wire is grounded somewhere. You can determine if the problem is in my box as follows.

If memory serves, you can plug my two injector harness connectors together to bypass the box. [inserted note: I have not seen an original "fan box" for several years!] Do this and retest the bad cylinder with the noid light. If the light is on whenever the ignition is on, the problem is not in the box. If the problem *is* in the box, you can send it to me and I'll try to fix it.

If the problem is not in the box, most likely you have wire with cut insulation somewhere. One of my customers thought he had a bad box, but it turned out to be that one of the injector wires was rubbing on the back side of the cylinder head. Cylinder head casting flash cut through the wire insulation and caused that injector to be always grounded (and so always open).

You can buy a noid light at auto parts stores, or get a 12 volt LED from Radio Shack instead. The LED will be cheaper and brighter, but you'll have to work out which way to orient the LED in the injector socket. If you are not familiar with LEDs, ask the Radio Shack guy to mark the positive and negative legs for you. The negative LED leg goes in the injector socket terminal that connects to my box. The positive LED leg goes in the terminal that is electrically hot when the ignition is on.
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Since sending the reply, I remembered helping another customer who experienced cylinder flooding only at WOT. In his case, one of the injector wires would ground out on the head only when the engine torqued over, so looking for a short to ground with the engine off or idling failed to isolate the problem. Careless wire routing can bite you bad!

Jeff
www.acceleronics.com

Purple Poncho

Looks like I fixed it. For now anyways.
I tried MikeGyver's idea with the test light hooked to the + battery and tested pre and post injector box wires at the solder connections. I then plugged back in the injector and put the key to ON and the fuel rail held pressure.

I am sure it is not truely fixed but a wire has re found its happy place.
I retaped and put all the wires back in the looms and did the "pressure test" as I did each section of wire to see if it would unpressurize as I monkeyed with a particular section of wire. Nothing. So I guess all is good......for now. I know what to look for every time I fire it up. The "injector fault" is also gone from TTS.

I went out for a drive and had to reset the PCM as it was all messed up from seeng so much fuel. Also had to put in 40L of gas after just filling up last week. You would not believe how much gas a 72# injector fires out at full tilt.

Thanks everyone.