Fuel Pump "Trap Door" Tips + Convertable
Fuel Pump "Trap Door" Tips + Convertable
Ok I did a bunch or research on this forum for the trap door method to get your fuel pump out before I decided to cut a hole in mine. I noticed that many were going back and forth about structural integrity of the car if you cut a hole. I can tell you guys that you are not weaking the structure if you do it right, in fact you can actually strengthen it. If you don't believe me look at aircraft. Most aircraft ribs have lightening holes stamped out to save on weight. All the strength of the metal is to the outside egdes. The middle part of the metal has very little stress so it does not carry much load. Cutting the trap door if done by the measurements (posted elsewhere on this board), will not hurt it. Just do not cut into the corregated part as that is where the strength is. The center part you are cutting out does not take much or a load. Also aircraft get many holes in the skin and have been patched up with an overlapping piece of sheet metal. You just need to do it right.
A few tips and things to remember to do it right:
- Make sure you round out (putting a radius) on the four corners of the cut out. Stress gets concentrated in sharp points that will lead to cracks.
- When drilling the holes for the screws, put a piece of wood between the metal and the tank as this will keep you from hitting the tank with the drill. You can also use what is called a drill stop
- Use wider screws such as # 10 x 1/2 (don't use any longer than 1/2 screws)
- Use a thicker piece of sheet metal to cover up the hole than the sheet metal of the car.... this will help with strength. I got some 16 gauge sheet metal steel from Lowes. This will work fine.
- Use many screws spaced about 2 inches from each other as this will help with strength (using only 4 doesn't help and niether does the hinge with latches I have seen on others pictures)
- Use plenty of sealant to ensure the interior is sealed off from the gas tank area. Don't just use a fillet seal along the edges, use a lap joint where the sheet metal overlaps the hole.
- For the convertable I looked and did not find much info. It is possible to do this method but the hole will be slightly smaller. Just go right up to the cross bar but do not cut into it. Remove the two bolts that hold the straps on the fuel tank. Let the tank rest againt the panhard bar. This will give you the extra room you need to disconnect the fuel lines. You will also not be able to put screws in on one side of the patch.
A few tips and things to remember to do it right:
- Make sure you round out (putting a radius) on the four corners of the cut out. Stress gets concentrated in sharp points that will lead to cracks.
- When drilling the holes for the screws, put a piece of wood between the metal and the tank as this will keep you from hitting the tank with the drill. You can also use what is called a drill stop
- Use wider screws such as # 10 x 1/2 (don't use any longer than 1/2 screws)
- Use a thicker piece of sheet metal to cover up the hole than the sheet metal of the car.... this will help with strength. I got some 16 gauge sheet metal steel from Lowes. This will work fine.
- Use many screws spaced about 2 inches from each other as this will help with strength (using only 4 doesn't help and niether does the hinge with latches I have seen on others pictures)
- Use plenty of sealant to ensure the interior is sealed off from the gas tank area. Don't just use a fillet seal along the edges, use a lap joint where the sheet metal overlaps the hole.
- For the convertable I looked and did not find much info. It is possible to do this method but the hole will be slightly smaller. Just go right up to the cross bar but do not cut into it. Remove the two bolts that hold the straps on the fuel tank. Let the tank rest againt the panhard bar. This will give you the extra room you need to disconnect the fuel lines. You will also not be able to put screws in on one side of the patch.
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dbusch22
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Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



