Engine cranks, but won't start...
Engine cranks, but won't start...
The problem started out as an occasional inconvenience, now my Z car won't start at all. Car is a 2000 Z28, and has given me nothing but joy and giggles for approx 2 years. Putiing a set of jumper cables on the battery resulted in no start. I'm fairly sure the problem isn't the battery or the starter, as the engine is turning over with no problem, no stumbles, starter sounds "strong". It's not falling off or grinding in any way.
After some searches at this site, I though the problem was the "classic" fuel pump failure. I purchased a fuel pressure gauge, and it goes up to 59psi when key is switched on, then it drops to approx 51psi. Could anyone tell me if these #'s are in spec? Seems to me I saw a reference to high 30/low 40's elsewhere on this site, but it was in reference to am LT1 engine. I'm unable to start the engine, so I don't know what the gauge reads at idle.
What's the best/safest way to test for spark if my fuel pump isn't at fault?
Any and all comments appreciated.
I'm fairly new to this.
Thanx for your time!
Jack
After some searches at this site, I though the problem was the "classic" fuel pump failure. I purchased a fuel pressure gauge, and it goes up to 59psi when key is switched on, then it drops to approx 51psi. Could anyone tell me if these #'s are in spec? Seems to me I saw a reference to high 30/low 40's elsewhere on this site, but it was in reference to am LT1 engine. I'm unable to start the engine, so I don't know what the gauge reads at idle.
What's the best/safest way to test for spark if my fuel pump isn't at fault?
Any and all comments appreciated.
I'm fairly new to this.
Thanx for your time!
Jack
It appears it's the anti-theft system.....
I pulled the battery, it tested fine. I pulled the starter and took it to autozone, it tests fine. I pulled some plug wires, they gave spark. I tested fuel pressure, it's in spec. As I live in an area that has seen some really bad storms, and was out of power at the house for three days, I took my car to a mechanic. I just don't have the time right now to be messing with the car any longer. I need it for a daily driver.
The mechanic thinks it's the lock cylinder that reads the chip on my ignition key. This was almost a relieve to me, as I figured I must have missed something "more obvious". It killed me to take my Z28 to a mechanic.
Anyway, I'll know for certain later in the day.
Jack
The mechanic thinks it's the lock cylinder that reads the chip on my ignition key. This was almost a relieve to me, as I figured I must have missed something "more obvious". It killed me to take my Z28 to a mechanic.
Anyway, I'll know for certain later in the day.
Jack
Granted this is a bit late but the best way to test for spark is to remove the sparkplug #1 keep it attached to the plug wire and have someone turn the key while you are holding the plug with rubber gloves or something safe, hold it near the engine block and see if there is a spark. If not it sounds like it may be your Opti, coil or ICM. I just had the same issue and it was my opti
That's what I did to test for spark...
but the story doesn't end there. When the mechanic called the next day, I asked him about the cylinder lock thing. He said they decided it wasn't the anti theft system, as the engine shouldn't crank in that situation. I don't know anything about the anti-theft system. They then swapped the ignition and starter relays, and I haven't had a problem since. I've been driving the car for several days, no problems. Really weird.
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