Fuel and Ignition Fuel Pumps and Systems, Ignition and Spark Systems

Dual walbros or single walbro and boost pump on turbo lt1?

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #1  
Jameslt1TA's Avatar
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From: Wyoming
Dual walbros or single walbro and boost pump on turbo lt1?

This is for my 97 camaro that i recently purchaced and got running. It just has a racetronix 255 walbro without the booster harness, it does have 75lb injectors. I do have my 95 trans am(parts car now) with the booster harness and a fairly new racetronix 255 walbro in it. I plan on putting the booster harness on it. Can i easily put the 255 from my ta in there with a boost switch? Or would it be easier and better to just add the Kenne bell boost a pump that rich is always talking about? The car runs great as it sits and feels like its making well over 500rwhp but i have no idea as ive never drove anything faster than my 345 rwhp ta. Ill try to get some datalogs with the fast c-com this weekend. It does not seem like its running out of fuel and pulls great up to 6k rpm. But it has not been dyno tuned yet and i imagine it will make alot more power when it gets tuned and i dont want to run out of fuel and damage the motor.

Link for complete mod list https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=715467
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #2  
mzgp5x's Avatar
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From: MI
I have a similar app (97ss 383 - D1 MM6 AFR_190 + other), and, I have modified the fuel system. Now running (2) Walbro 255 lph w/ (1) K_Bell BAP on pump #1. I had the KB BAP on a single Walbro 255 w/ the stock fuel line.

I did not work for me and I replaced all the stock w/ the twin pumps & (2) -6an socketless hose merged into a single -8an line to the manifold. This worked for me. I think that I would have been OK w/ the single pump & KB BAP w/ NEW -8an line. The stock line is not sized for high fuel volumn w/ all those sharp tube bends. B.
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 06:26 PM
  #3  
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From: Midwest
There are folk that are claiming +800 hp with stock fuel lines, not sure why yours would be a restriction.
James, you would be far better served by installing the second pump with a Hobbs switch to activate it under boost. The BAP is expensive at >$225 and all it does is increase the voltage to the pump, making it spin faster. Also, the hotwire kit, aka booster harness, is vital to supplying enough current to the primary pump. The factory wiring is marginal for the stock pump, the added current draw of the 255lph (~10A) really needs that 10 gauge wire and relay to help it along.
Old Mar 3, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #4  
sepno77's Avatar
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I'd stay away from boosta pumps. My dad has had Horrible time w/ it on his S/C GT.
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