This may be a dumb question but when installing this gauge there is no where for the factory wiring to go. Doesnt the pcm need this? Do I have to splice some wires together? I tried to search first on here but couldnt find anything. Thanks for the help!

 

Depending on the gauge, a majority of them pick up the feed from the o2 sensor. No need to tap into the PCM directly. The other wires that you should have will be your power, ground and maybe a dimmer.

 

Are you installing an A/F ratio gauge that uses the stock, narrow-band sensor, or a gauge that uses a wide-band sensor? The wide-band requires that you add a second bung, or install it where the stock sensor is located and use the 0-1V emulation mode output from the wide-band controller to feed the PCM.

 

Nobody can help you without the pertinent basic info.

 

It is a wide-band. I think I'm just going to weld a new bung in. It seems like the easiest to me. Will it read accurate if I weld it at the end of the y pipe or is that too far down? Thanks.

 

The wide-band controllers have extensive temperature correction built in. Should not be a problem. Other issue will be that you are only looking at one bank of the engine. Might want to consider a dual sensor unit.

 

What if I put it in the pipe where the two sides meet? Would that work?

 

Let's say one bank is running rich, and one bank is running lean. The combined exhaust will showup as neither. As a minimum, have an extra bung welded to each side of the exhaust, with the sensor in one and a plug in the other, so you can swap the sensor to either side.

Or:

http://www.altronicsinc.com/pages/o2alert.html

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/mt.htm

 

My wideband is 1 foot from my exhaust tip.

 

Does this mean it reads off both sides?

 

Ok guys I got this gauge installed and need help again. I put it in the end of the y pipe like i said just to see what it would read and it is too high to read at idle and around 13.0 from 4000 rpms and up.
Do you think this is right or not because I have it reading off both sides?
It was throwing lean codes before I fixed the fuel pressure but now no codes and 44psi idle and 50 WOT. Let me know what you all think. Thanks.

 

Your fuel pressure sounds high. Usually you will see 43.5psi at idle, with the vacuum compensation line off, and the pressure will drop when you reattach the vacuum line, proportional to intake manifold vacuum. With a cam more aggressive than stock, you might only see a 4 or 5psi drop. When you go WOT the pressure should return within 1 or 2psi of the "no vacuum" reading.

What does the A/F ratio read at idle? Should be 14.7:1. When you indicate you see 13:1 at 4,000 RPM and up, is that at part throttle, or close to WOT throttle? For max torque/HP in power enrichment mode (PE mode = 70% TPP or greater, depending on the tune), its not unusual to see the sweet spot in the range of 12.8 - 13.2:1.

 

not to hijack but do most leave them hooked up all the time or take em back out and put the plug in?

 

Run it all the time.

 

Your smog pump was probably on...
You need to let the car run for 5 minutes so it enters closed loop. It should try to hold 14.7-15.2 Open loop will likely read 13.x
You cannot have any intake leaks, or exhaust leaks upstream of your o2 sensors or the wideband.

huh? 1 sensor reading all 8 cylinders is the default setup.

Un-ghettorig/fix your fuel pressure for starters (unless the PCM has been tuned to reflect this change).