Thank you for the reply. I have not scanned the codes because no one seems to have a scanner that will read the codes OBD1 I believe. The first time I replaced the pump I merely replaced the actual pump. When that did not do the trick I replaced it with one from a salvage. This one had better pressure than the aftermarket pump. So I tested the injector during cranking with a small alarm pieze that is hand for checking various things. Would this not produce the same audible alarm when the motor is being cranked over? Thanks for the help

 

Pull your pump out and put it in a small bucket of gas and see if any of the lines are leaking.
When I replaced my fuel pump I must have dropped an O-ring where the fuel pump line goes to the sender and I got a leak and a loss of fuel presser.
I got the right size O-ring and rechecked it before I put it in and the leak was gone and I had great fuel presser.

 

Today I was able to sneak out of work and do some tests with a meter. I removed the coil pack and tested the ICM harness and I got over10V on A and D The ground on C seemed a little weak and B read correctly as well.
I then removed the coil and when I did there was a LOT of white chalky residue in the plug wire connector the optispark. Looks like this would cause a very poor comnnection.
I do have some conflicting info on the OHM measurements for the coil. The shbox.com site says the reading should be 8.5 ohms..
There is a thread on this forum at the top of the page, vague I know. but it says that 5000 is fine but any higher and the coil is bad so I need to know which is correct please!!!!!!

 

so I replaced my icm that tested bad. I still don't know about the cool I have not got any answers to my last question. I went ahead and replaced the optispark a couple of days ago and it started. However I did not replace the seal. The alternator died on the way home and left me stranded but I had another one so I got a ride home and replaced o out and jumped the battery to get home. So then I took it apart again replaced the seal then put everything back and now it won't start again! Wtf... Ugh!

 

Well it started and ran for about five minutes then sputtered and died. The tach was jumping around then it died. I tried staying it again it started for a moment then died. Then refused to start. I checked for spark. No spark. I decided to go ahead and replace the coil and I got the same issue. Won't start me spark...help. The weeks and 500$ in parts!

 

Might be time to download the DataMaster free scanning software and invest in the correct cable so you can check for codes.

 

I am going thru the same stuff. 1995 lt1 sitting for 7 years. No fuel pressure. Going to change the fuel filter first, then put a vacumn on the line, hoping to get fuel. If Not , then what is the walbro replacement pump number?
Replaced head gasket, valve job, 97,000 miles did not need much
Fuel Pump repacement after 6 years of sitting with gas.
I hope this will help someone who's car has been apart for over 5 years.
1.Drained as much as possible gas out of tank.
2. Installed new fuel pump and fuel filter.
3. hooked up my old freon gauages to fuel rail test connector.
4. turned key on 2 seconds, off 10 sec. Many times
5. opened the line and bleed till nice clean fuel came out.
Now clean fuel from tank all the way to the fuel rail..
6. the first couple of bleeds did not smell good.
AND IT ran after 6 years of parts sitting on shelf. Had to give it a shot of carb cleaner in
where opt vacumn goes(unhooked, shot it, hooked back up)


Thanks
Frank
1995 z28 lt1 vinP