95 z28 - Car keeps stalling!
95 z28 - Car keeps stalling!
I truly think my car is possessed! My car has become completely unreliable and ultimately undrivable. Basically, when the car reaches normal operating temp (by my observation) it just shuts off. I've tried restarting immediately while coasting in N, but rarely will that work. When the problem first started happening, all I had to do was wait about 5-10 min and them it would start again and be fine. Its been about 2 mos now and the problem has become much worse. If I am lucky, the car is drivable within about a half hour. The car does crank just fine but just wont start. Only now when I do start driving again it only goes maybe 20-30 feet and dies again. Its so frustrating! Last night it took me 4 hours to get home - I was only 2 miles from home.
Here's the kicker - when I have alot of weight in the passenger seat, the problem is at its worst
I have been told that my ALDL connector under driver dash appears to not be wired correctly because after 4-5 attempts (by different auto shops) at hooking up a different scanners - it has never been successful
Here's what I've deduced:
The problem appears to be a spark problem because after hooking up a noid light to the plugs, there was nothing lighting up. Also, I replaced the fuel pump, relay and filter back in February. The symptoms now are nothing like the what I experienced with the pump going out. A buddy of mine did a fuel pressure test a few different times since this has started happening and said it was fine.
Here's what I've replaced with new parts in the last 2 weeks:
coil
opti(cap & rotor) - 2nd time replacing in 6 mos
plug wires - went bad, fried by headers
ign module - went bad, chunk broke off the side
opti harness
pcv valve
water pump - went bad, took out the opti
coolant temp sensor
timing chain - went bad, stretched
timing chain cover gaskets
oil pan gasket - went bad, I ripped it when I removed tc cover
battery - went bad, a friend put water in my maintenace free battery (ugh)
-I've noticed a heavy amount of blow-by coming into my tb from valve cover, I've had to replace the gasket under the tb plate 3x's within 4 mos
-My motor mount on the drivers side broke sometime since Feb
-My tranny fluid leaks under the car, appears to be from the pan seal
-Tranny mount desperately needs to be replaced, but its not broken
I know this is alot of information and I do appreciate whoever is taking the time to read through it all. I welcome any feedback you have to offer. I am so ready to drive my car off of a cliff - please help!
Here's the kicker - when I have alot of weight in the passenger seat, the problem is at its worst
I have been told that my ALDL connector under driver dash appears to not be wired correctly because after 4-5 attempts (by different auto shops) at hooking up a different scanners - it has never been successful
Here's what I've deduced:
The problem appears to be a spark problem because after hooking up a noid light to the plugs, there was nothing lighting up. Also, I replaced the fuel pump, relay and filter back in February. The symptoms now are nothing like the what I experienced with the pump going out. A buddy of mine did a fuel pressure test a few different times since this has started happening and said it was fine.
Here's what I've replaced with new parts in the last 2 weeks:
coil
opti(cap & rotor) - 2nd time replacing in 6 mos
plug wires - went bad, fried by headers
ign module - went bad, chunk broke off the side
opti harness
pcv valve
water pump - went bad, took out the opti
coolant temp sensor
timing chain - went bad, stretched
timing chain cover gaskets
oil pan gasket - went bad, I ripped it when I removed tc cover
battery - went bad, a friend put water in my maintenace free battery (ugh)
-I've noticed a heavy amount of blow-by coming into my tb from valve cover, I've had to replace the gasket under the tb plate 3x's within 4 mos
-My motor mount on the drivers side broke sometime since Feb
-My tranny fluid leaks under the car, appears to be from the pan seal
-Tranny mount desperately needs to be replaced, but its not broken
I know this is alot of information and I do appreciate whoever is taking the time to read through it all. I welcome any feedback you have to offer. I am so ready to drive my car off of a cliff - please help!
Hi, I have the same problem, when my car gets hot(when I beat on it). It started shutting down, I could feel it start to loose power too. I have a Dynaspark, New fuel pump and harness, new MSD wires and a MSD coil. I just replaced the Ignition Control Module, and took for a blast. So far so good.Just my 2-cents.Ray
The 95 is a bastard year, with an OBD-I PCM, and a 16-pin OBD-II ALDL connector. That confuses most shops, and they try to hook an OBD-II scanner up. Won't work, as they have found out with your car. You need an OBD-I scanner. You need a 12-pin --> 16-pin adapter plug, or you need to use jumper wires to connect the OBD-I 12-pin scanner cable to the 95's 16-pin ALDL connector. Shoebox has a great photo:
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
Scan it. You may find you have a problem with one of the components that is sensitive to heat soak. That would include the IC module and thd optical cam position sensor in the Opti. What brand Opti did you buy? Anything other than an OEM (AC Delco, Delphi or GM performance Parts) is likely to fail immediately. Notice you said you changed the cap and rotor. The problem is more likely in the optical sensor, which you have not replaced.
You need to check the short harness that connects from the gray connector on the bracket on the side of the intake manifold to the Opti. Check for corrosion, damaged pins of a missing clip that secures the harness connector to the Opti.
The scan my help you. The Opti sets two codes for loss of signal from the cam position sensor. They do not turn on the SES light, so you might not know they are there.
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
Scan it. You may find you have a problem with one of the components that is sensitive to heat soak. That would include the IC module and thd optical cam position sensor in the Opti. What brand Opti did you buy? Anything other than an OEM (AC Delco, Delphi or GM performance Parts) is likely to fail immediately. Notice you said you changed the cap and rotor. The problem is more likely in the optical sensor, which you have not replaced.
You need to check the short harness that connects from the gray connector on the bracket on the side of the intake manifold to the Opti. Check for corrosion, damaged pins of a missing clip that secures the harness connector to the Opti.
The scan my help you. The Opti sets two codes for loss of signal from the cam position sensor. They do not turn on the SES light, so you might not know they are there.
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