Hey anybody else put a front mount turbo on a LS1 and just remove the abs brake box?How good do the brakes still work?

 

You mean in the snow and ice?

 

no just in general.I know you can move this enough out of the way for a front mount turbo but just wanted to know if i can remove it for room and weight savings without any negatives the car will be mostly at the track but will make appearances on the street.

 

You won't have the whole anti-lock thing happening, and they malfunctioned a lot of the time anyway, so no big thing in dry weather. You will need a proportioning valve and a couple new brake lines and then just get the valve adjusted correctly and you are good to go. A lot of people have thrown out the antilock because they need the room for blower tubing and it is in the way. Your car will brake like it always did when it wasn't trying to skid or slip.

 

Thanks that's what i thought but I'm not a brake expert.Its always nice to know someone else did it first successfully.

 

I just installed an ABS delete kit today. The SJM kit is simple to install. All you need to do is flare 4 lines and mount the proportioning valve.
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_lt1.html

 

Thanks, just what i was looking for.

 

that is pretty neat, but that is alot of money for a proportioning valve and a couple brake lines

even with that kit you still need to flare a few lines, why not just flare the rest yourself and save 50-60 dollars

 

I bought the SJM too. I had issues with my flares (my doing), they were leaking. One of them was crooked into the junction- went to napa for a new junction. Fixed that, then the bottom of the proportioning valve started leaking, pulled apart and tightened. Then a couple days later the top of the valve started leaking, pulled off top connection and tightened. Had to buy line wrenches at harbor freight to get them tight enough. Now its been a month and still leak free. I'm happy now, but i used to get angry at this kit. Haven't wired up the line lock yet.

 

Why did gm change a simple thing that worked for years?Must have went back and forth to the part store 10 different times.Bought the line lock kit for 75 bucks and the proportioning valve for 20.Thought i would save money doing the rest myself and now i still smell like brake fluid.All the fittings that went into the abs were a new style called a bubble flare that threaded right into the line-lock but didn't seal.Cut off the rear bubble flares and installed new double flares and flare tool just would not want to work on those lines I have flared many times so it wasn't a new-be thing even called Chevy and said if they half to do it they use a hy-drolic flare press that the hand held crank just wont do.had to run new lines to the back.Finally the back works go to bleed the brakes and now all 3 feed,and both left and right lines out the line-lock leak like a siv after 6 more trips few phone calls ended up having to make 3 setup adapters to go from existing bubble flare to new union to bubble flare line to 3/ 16 standard brake flare to adapter to npt into the line lock on all 3.Finally good pressure no leaks and my line-lock/proportioning valve area looks like a mouse roll cage habitat.oh yea spent another 80 bucks easy plus gas and a day.NOT FUN when all you want to do is start your new turbo and go driving.

 

its a metric flare, alot or domestics are using them now

they are not hard at all to do, but you need the right tool. hydraulic would be nice, but i just use a snap on flare tool, and you would be amazed at how much simpler it is with that than a cheapie tool

 

Everybody I know with a proportioning valve runs it wide open. I do not have one. I can not make the rears lock before the fronts. Have had lt1 and ls1 brakes on the front. 3 channel setup.