Tensioner issues = munching belts
The continuing ati tensioner problems is one of the reasons I switched to Vortech.
The Vortech tensioner system uses a stock-factory spring loaded Ford tensioner. 2 holes are drilled in the blower bracket to bolt the tensioner assembly on. A very simple design, but seems to be effective.
The ati tensioner design needs help.
The Vortech tensioner system uses a stock-factory spring loaded Ford tensioner. 2 holes are drilled in the blower bracket to bolt the tensioner assembly on. A very simple design, but seems to be effective.
The ati tensioner design needs help.
It is not so much that I have had trouble with the tensioner itself, but that I'm constantly chewing up belts and the idle pulley is wearing away.
I THOUGHT it was because I had the belt too tight, but Scott says the problem is because the crank pulley and blower pulley are not perfectly in line with each other.
He also mentioned that when we bolt the crank pulley to the stock balancer it is not a machined surface so the crank pulley has a 'wobble' in almost every case. (I have seen that, when I watch the pulley I see it oscilating).
Add to that the flex in the bracket and the belt is never actually sitting flat on both pulleys. That does make a LOT of sense to me and given my tension pullies being eroded, I'm sure this is what is happening to me.
The most boost I have seen is 13.8# but usually I'm 12- 13# on a 15# pulley. I'm optomistic I should see the maximum potential out of the blower with the new SDCE system.
That being said, Scott said the intake angle, and the fact I still use the orange dryer hose which is causing air turbulance, and that we should ALL being using the biggest air filters made and that the IC is somewhat restrictive, suggests that I'll never be able to get 100% out of the blowers potential but I'm sure I can add a # or 2 with his pulley / bracket set up.
Hey Marc. Scott was actually talking to me about your car. He said you brought the car in and said "....I haver had enough of this. Fix it or douse it in gas and throw a match on it..." LOL.
I know that frustration. Freaking best summer in a 100 years here in Vancouver and I'm driving a Sunfire while the vert is in a million pieces in the garage because the engine builder won't freakin do his job. Had the motor 4 months GRRRRRRR
Anyway, I'm promised the motor back the week of July 5th.
I THOUGHT it was because I had the belt too tight, but Scott says the problem is because the crank pulley and blower pulley are not perfectly in line with each other.
He also mentioned that when we bolt the crank pulley to the stock balancer it is not a machined surface so the crank pulley has a 'wobble' in almost every case. (I have seen that, when I watch the pulley I see it oscilating).
Add to that the flex in the bracket and the belt is never actually sitting flat on both pulleys. That does make a LOT of sense to me and given my tension pullies being eroded, I'm sure this is what is happening to me.
The most boost I have seen is 13.8# but usually I'm 12- 13# on a 15# pulley. I'm optomistic I should see the maximum potential out of the blower with the new SDCE system.
That being said, Scott said the intake angle, and the fact I still use the orange dryer hose which is causing air turbulance, and that we should ALL being using the biggest air filters made and that the IC is somewhat restrictive, suggests that I'll never be able to get 100% out of the blowers potential but I'm sure I can add a # or 2 with his pulley / bracket set up.
Hey Marc. Scott was actually talking to me about your car. He said you brought the car in and said "....I haver had enough of this. Fix it or douse it in gas and throw a match on it..." LOL.
I know that frustration. Freaking best summer in a 100 years here in Vancouver and I'm driving a Sunfire while the vert is in a million pieces in the garage because the engine builder won't freakin do his job. Had the motor 4 months GRRRRRRR
Anyway, I'm promised the motor back the week of July 5th.
Last edited by 97TA-WS6-Con; Jun 30, 2004 at 11:28 PM.
Parting the car out did cross my mind, the LS-1 was a lifesaver as it gave me something decent to drive and race while giving me the ability to stick with my original project......in hindsight I should have bought an LS-1 immeadiaetly after I blew up the 94 but live and learn.
Scott is pretty good to deal with
If I did burn it, I'd have yanked some of the good stuff off it first
Marc
Scott is pretty good to deal with

If I did burn it, I'd have yanked some of the good stuff off it first

Marc
Tensioner & alignment
I just aligned the P600B on my motor & was really surprised how far off it was. I had to shim it out (forward) about 1/4" and use longer bolts to attach it to the motor.
I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.
I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.
Re: Tensioner & alignment
Originally posted by Live for TAs
I just aligned the P600B on my motor & was really surprised how far off it was. I had to shim it out (forward) about 1/4" and use longer bolts to attach it to the motor.
I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.
I just aligned the P600B on my motor & was really surprised how far off it was. I had to shim it out (forward) about 1/4" and use longer bolts to attach it to the motor.
I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.
Re: Tensioner & alignment
Originally Posted by Live for TAs
I just aligned the P600B on my motor & was really surprised how far off it was. I had to shim it out (forward) about 1/4" and use longer bolts to attach it to the motor.
I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.
I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.
Do you still have that write up somewhere?
-B
Re: Tensioner issues = munching belts
I always had problems with the ati tensioner, it is a piece of **** IMO. What happens is the tensioner has some deflection in it and it is not centered properly. These cause problems after awhile.
But, I have also had some issues with the Vortech tensioner too. It burned out one of the bearings in the blower. Maybe it was a bad bearing, I don't know. The tensioner comes with the vortech kit, it is a ford tensioner. The front bearing went bad after a few months of use. I told this to vortech rep and he said to lower the tension on the belt. Okay, how?
But, I have also had some issues with the Vortech tensioner too. It burned out one of the bearings in the blower. Maybe it was a bad bearing, I don't know. The tensioner comes with the vortech kit, it is a ford tensioner. The front bearing went bad after a few months of use. I told this to vortech rep and he said to lower the tension on the belt. Okay, how?
Re: Tensioner issues = munching belts
I've had the same problem. The belt ran close to the rear of the pulley, and, the flange chews up the belt. I took it off and altered the ati set up. Turned it flat all across the face. Also cut ouf 3/8+ on the outside for better rad/ fan clearance. Then, shortened the internal spacer mount to run closer to the spring arm. Still had clearance (about 0.050"). I put a straight edge on the crank pulley, and eye-balled the angular alignment. Then made new spacers on the blower mount to correct parallel alignment. Looks to be good now. Guess you got to look @ every little thing.
Hope this helps...
___
97 383 D1
Hope this helps...
___
97 383 D1
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SpeedJunkee
Parts For Sale
7
Jun 6, 2015 04:27 PM
1LEThumper
Forced Induction
40
Jul 14, 2003 12:45 PM
94 green drop top
LS1 Based Engine Tech
2
Aug 8, 2002 04:11 PM



