At what point do I need to worry about getting these items. I read on the site Im buying my shortblock from that a keyed hub is necessry for S/C motors but I'm not sure. I will be running a 383 with an P-1SC. THe pulley is a 10# but with the LE3 heads I would assume the boost would actuall be less than that. THe most I will run will be about 14#. And I'm really not sure about the aftermarket balance. THanks

 

This has been discussed here MANY times, do a search and you'll find a lot of opinions and posts on it.

--Sean

 

My opinion is you might as well do it. If the hub starts to slip its going to tear up the crank, the hub, and maybe the huib bolts. The possible damage from not doing it isnt worth the few bucks to key everything.

 

Agreed, If it's possible I would recommend keying the hub on just a basic 6 PSI kit, even more important on a setup like yours.

 

ASP makes a nice keyed hub. Quite a bit stronger than a machined stocker. Think they were about $90.

 

Do you know a website so I could look at it?

 

i have pix in my sig

 

I don't believe they even list it on their website. If you call they'll hook you up though.

 

I think thunder racing sells one for around 50.00

 

lonnie sells these as a kit and a very cool guy to deal with, i order mine from him if you do a search on here there is a tone of info and you should find out everything you need.
-Jeremy

 

Info please? I'm doing a rebuild soon and want to cover all of the bases!

-B

 

Get the ASP hub as mentioned before. They run about 100 shipped. The thunder racing is 90 and shipping and a 50 core as they have your stock one machined. So the ASP is the way to go, no core, no double shipping and you can sell your stocker to someone who needs one to help pay for it. As far as boost goes 10 psi on a stroker will be like running a 14psi pulley on a stock lt1. You still will be spinning the blower just as hard as the 14 psi would on a stock motor. Just because you see less boost due to a more efficient motor doesnt mean it takes the strain off the pulley. If anything there will be more strain as the blower will have to spin harder to make the same boost as it would on a smaller motor.

 

I've tried the keyed hub. A good idea, bit, care must be used during assembly. The woodruff key has a tendancy to rotate upon assembly. If the key does not align with the hub key-way, the ket will jamb and either crack the hub seal boss (alum cover), and/ or destry the hub. This happened to me. You cannot see the engagement due to the timing cover and seal. Therefore, while you press fit the hub, this type of "blind" failure can happen. I eventually opted for an ARP larger dampner bolt to apply more crank snout load. A straight key would be better (but not made that way), or, may I suggest grinding generous clearance on the key top surface.
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Callies 4340 crank with a stock Lt1 press-on hub and arp dampner bolt.