Injuneer

No. Just take the picture from on top of the engine, showing what is bolted to the exhaust side of one of the cylinder heads.

Novo

I've take the photo, it is a left bank, cause right one was completely inaccessible...
http://www.mediafire.com/view/d3r7jm...ifold_rear.jpg
http://www.mediafire.com/view/qk9eos...fold_front.jpg
Is that what we need to determine a type of exhaust?

GaryDoug

I can't really say why the bank2 sensor spikes a few tenths of a volt at times. Perhaps intermittent sensor or connector. Or maybe the sensor is carbonized too much to perform.

I did notice that the engine comes out of closed lop mode several times and that correlates with the bank2 sensor coming out of the ready state.



Back up a bit when taking the exhaust manifold photos, like these but from the top:

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/temp_sensor2.jpg

Novo

Whan I was taking photos, I tried to get this view...
http://shbox.com/1/EGR_pipe.jpg
But this was impossible, cause that part of the engine is under the cover.
Both of my photos are from the top, but not from the view that is on yours pictures.
Will try to do it better.

Injuneer

Those look like rusty stock cast iron manifolds, with sheet metal heat shields.

Tubular headers would look like this:

Novo

So, mine are stock, I've understood.

Injuneer

Apparently you and your buddy (both IP's trace to Ukraine Dnipropetrovsk Science Production Company Trifle Ltd.) are here to make trouble. If that's the case, stop wasting your time and ours.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/dra...4/#post6980882

Novo

So the case is - I bought my Camaro in spring and I have some troubles with it, that I described here in this thread. So I need help from the people of this forum and I very appreciate for all whe helps me. Those are the reasons that I'm here. I hope that you understand me. Thank you.


About my friend. I think that his post on this forum was some piece of humour, but it was not my idea.


So I'm here on this forum exactly to take some help from you and to provide one if I can. I hope that I will be the member of this society for now and for the future and will become helpful.

97WS6SCharged

Honestly, you're working with very dated technology which was often questionable when it was new. I've had two BTM boxes fail on me at various times before I went another direction with the ignition system. The super fueler with the 3 additional injectors is a lousy way to get extra fuel to the engine. You have problems with uneven distribution not to mention the added complexity of the system itself.

FWIW, fix the problems Fred pointed out to you with the O2 sensors and plugs and then look into modernizing your setup a bit. Correctly sized injectors and a quality ignition system with a good tune will go a long way to making the car run better. A stock motor with 6 lbs should be a mid to low 12 second car if everything is working properly and you can drive it. With good weather you might even nudge into the 11's.

Novo

Hi there!
The story continues. Finally, yesterday I've got a garage with repair pit in it. Tried to remove O2 sensors to cross change it (left to right and right to left to know if the problem will move from right to left bank or will it remain on the right bank). I began from the left O2 sensor, cause it was clear to access. And I can do nothing with it - me and my collegue hung on the wrench and O2 sensor didn't twist. Maybe it is because of iron to iron union of the manifold and and O2 sensor for over 20 years. So I thought that right O2 sesnor has the same problem, not mention to the problem of unclear access to it through the manifold and other accessories.

So the question is: how to remove or change O2 sensors in my situation? Maybe I have to change all of the stock exhaust system. By the way, I knocked to the cat box and it seemed to me that it is empty.

So, after unsuccessful O2 sensor changing I started to inspect my spark plugs and spark wires. I removed all of the spark plugs and it took about 2 hours for me. All of the spark-plugs are Denso Irridium IT16 (model 5325) that is the upgrade option for LT1 engine according to rockauto catalogue. I've inspected the gaps and it is from 0.415mm to 0.450mm, and all of them had the colour of the red brick (I think this shows that the spark-plugs are in good condition and work fine). Then I tried to check spark-wires for cross-connection and I've shured that all of it has exact length to reach its spark-plug.

After that, I moved spark-plugs to their places and connected it with wires, connected my laptop to the ECM and ran the engine. And I've checked out that somthing is have chenged. Last time I ran app the both of O2 sensors had 'O2 Ready' field filled with digit '1' on the green background, but right bank O2 sensor displayed value about 0.455mV. But for now the value remains the same, but the 'Right O2 Ready' shows nothing - there is no value '1' on the green backround in that field anymore. Is that mean that ECM has no connection to the right O2 sensor anymore? Maybe when I was removing spark-plugs, I've hurt the harness of the right O2 sesnsor, that is pretty close to cyl-8 spark-plug.

So in the nearest future I will try to diconnect and connect the right O2 sensor harness from the repair pit when I'll get access there, cause it really hard to do from the top of the car - only one hand can reach the connector.

Thank you in advance!

Injuneer

Sometimes it's easier to loosen the O2 sensors if the exhaust system is hot. Avoid applying large amounts of rust penetrant because that can contaminate the wires and end of the sensor housing, and the hole for the wires allows ambient air into the inside of the O2 sensor thimble. That air is required on the inside of the thimble and exhaust on the outside of the thimble in order for the thimble to generate the additive and subtractive voltages that indicate O2 content in the exhaust.

Let me think about the O2 sensor "ready" question. I need to look at your earlier log to see what was going on.

Common "trick" it to hammer the inside of the catalytic converter to break up the substrate and blow the pieces out by running the engine. This is called "gutting" the cat. Appears to still have a cat, but the shell is hollow.

Novo

Thank you.
When I drove the car on to repair pit, I started to remove O2 sensor, so it was very hot at that time.
Oops... Later, when the exhaust was not so hot but still warm, I used a WD-40, that is widely using in our country to help unscrew something old and rusty. But I used it carefully - only over the hexagon and I didn't atomize it where the wires go into the O2 housing. And I used it only to left bank O2 sensor, cause the right bank O2 sensor was unaccessible. But even with WD-40 we were unable to wrench that sensor. There was a moment when I thought that we can knock down the housing of the sensor.
I think that WD-40 didn't get into the sensor through its end, where the wires do.
Hehe... How heavily I must hummer? I knocked there, and there wasn't any noise of something in the cat, it was look like it is hollow. But I will try more...


I will get a new logs tonight, where you can see that there is no more value '1' at the field 'Right O2 Ready'.

Injuneer

WD40 is not really a "rust penetrant". There are better materials available. The "WD" stands for "water displacement", which was the original purpose of WD40.

Are you using a specific O2 sensor socket? Unfortunately, they are so large they can just complicate things, but they are usually 6-point sockets, and able to apply more leverage without rounding off the hex.

Drop the rear tailpipe off the cat, and insert a long metal rod to break up the substrate. It should blow out when you start the engine. Then reconnect the tailpipe. Unless your converter is plugged, it really doesn't hurt performance very much on a "stockish" engine. But the S/C has increase flow to the point where you may notice an improvement.

Novo

Shops sell it like deeply penetrating lubricant, that must help with unscrewing. Anyway it didn't help...
We used two different simple open-ended wrenches - one was 22mm and one was 7/8 inches, that almost the same, but the second matched exactly and it didn't round off the corners of the hex, but as you know the sensor is still there. Maybe you know the best wrench fo this job, can you post a link to a picture with the wrench that helps the best, cause the left bank sensor is easy to access, but the right bank sensor - I have no idea how to access it and how to apply more power to turn it in such narrow space.
That part of the pipe, where I must disconnect it is placed right after the cat? I try to do this!
Thank you!

moparman

Here's some different sockets at Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page...ensor%20Socket