a common problem with boosted motors are worn valve springs. You have greatly increased the resistance they see at higher RPM's. Put on some new stem seals when you swap out the springs.

 

I had the exact same config as this guy at one time except I had headers and an automatic with a 3k converter and went 12.7 at 112 with mediocre 60 times.

 

i would figure out the deal with the knock retard... 4deg is a lot to a FI engine

 

Would pulling some timing out help with the knock? I never got any before the tune and i notice that the car runs lean below 3200 rpm's which would explain alot. I get the knock right at 2700 rpm's and it will have some if only .1 for the next 5 seconds which i have already let off the gas by that time.

 

The tune usually will run about 14-15/1 in part throttle and idle. At wot is the only time you are looking for that 11-12/1 af for the most part...

 

When i look at the long term vs airflow it reads perfect on the right side. There is no lean or rich issue at any time. The left shows lean over 1/3 of the time so does this mean theres something wrong with that side?

 

The last stock 6lb. run I made before the rebuild, netted a 13.0@109, while running with 5 broken pistons, all 5 had broken ringlands and it was blowing out the PVC and breathers because it had so much blow-by....and still went much faster then what you are seeing....?!?!?!?

 

i have a powerdyne on my motor, 6 psi. its not exactly stock. it has the lt1 hot cam kit and now has about 20,000 miles on it since stock rebuild. my best last year was 12.6 @ 116mph with a 1.9x sixty foot and spinning after 60 foot, not to mention a p.o.s. slipping auto trans.

 

I'm in the same boat 12.5 @111 2 years ago August. P1SC @ 6 lbs, trans was shot 2-3 shift slipping 1.9 60 foot times

 

"Running stock motor with boost. Who does it?"

Only those foolish enough to think they will actually last a while before they are in need of a rebuild.