Looking for suggestions
01-26-2008, 01:01 PM
#77
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 397
I can't believe the attention this post got!
Everybody wants to know my goals. My original goals where for a fast street car. I got into it with a stroker diesel the other night from a dead stop. He wasted me because I was dancing through 1st & 2nd. By the time I hit 3rd and overtook him I was pushing 105mph. This would be fine if we weren't in a 40mph zone on the main drag in the small town of which I live! At that point reality hit and I remembered that I am soon to turn 39 (whoever it was that said 38 is old, thanks I really didn't need that), I'm married, have 2 younger children, and they depend on my support, which requires me to have a license to drive. I was very close to losing my license when I was younger, to the point that I had a doctor schedule a surgery that I needed on the day that I was due to go to court, therefore pushing the court date out far enough that I regained enough points to retain my license. So I got into building 4X4's instead (slower=less trouble).
The Camaro sort of fell into my hands, right price, right time. My plans are now to build a fast track (drag) car. I still want it to be streetable for the occasional cruise just in case I get a wild hair. Now, by streetable I do not mean the family cruise to grandma's house. I have always had dreams of drag racing professionally. I grew up with Doug Vancil (for those of you unfamiliar you can do a search) and now I am watching him live his dream. I am at a point in my life now that I would like to live some of my dream, even if it is only on the weekends. I am aware of the safety needed to be "approved" for racing and I do not have a problem with that. I just want the best advise that I can get to go all-out racing.
Chas
Everybody wants to know my goals. My original goals where for a fast street car. I got into it with a stroker diesel the other night from a dead stop. He wasted me because I was dancing through 1st & 2nd. By the time I hit 3rd and overtook him I was pushing 105mph. This would be fine if we weren't in a 40mph zone on the main drag in the small town of which I live! At that point reality hit and I remembered that I am soon to turn 39 (whoever it was that said 38 is old, thanks I really didn't need that), I'm married, have 2 younger children, and they depend on my support, which requires me to have a license to drive. I was very close to losing my license when I was younger, to the point that I had a doctor schedule a surgery that I needed on the day that I was due to go to court, therefore pushing the court date out far enough that I regained enough points to retain my license. So I got into building 4X4's instead (slower=less trouble).
The Camaro sort of fell into my hands, right price, right time. My plans are now to build a fast track (drag) car. I still want it to be streetable for the occasional cruise just in case I get a wild hair. Now, by streetable I do not mean the family cruise to grandma's house. I have always had dreams of drag racing professionally. I grew up with Doug Vancil (for those of you unfamiliar you can do a search) and now I am watching him live his dream. I am at a point in my life now that I would like to live some of my dream, even if it is only on the weekends. I am aware of the safety needed to be "approved" for racing and I do not have a problem with that. I just want the best advise that I can get to go all-out racing.
Chas
You must've read it wrong and if you did I guess you are old seeing how you can comprehend no more. LOL! J/K FOR THE RECORD...WE ARE NOT OLD!
There, feel better now? 
01-26-2008, 01:09 PM
#78
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: St. Charles, IL
Posts: 690
The turbo guys are going to tell you to convert to one of their systems and the blower guys are going to tell you to stay with a blower. I think it's been proven that you can "go fast" with either and quite honesty, I'm tired of the useless debate between the two of them.
Since you are looking for some substantial power gains, here's one thought coming from a blower guy...Sell your Vortech S-trim (it's more than likely undersized for the 383 to start with) and purchase another Vortech blower that's going to make the boost you are looking for like a YS-i (I believe this is Vortech's large blower) or a F1-A Procharger as you are already set up for a blower. You already have the FMIC plumbed for a supercharger, you may need to go up in size with your injectors and maybe consider an alcohol injection kit. You didn't mention in your mod list if you have an upgraded rearend or any other suspension/chassis work, but if you haven't done so already, you are going to need to. Since you have been running a supercharger set-up, this just seems like an economical and natural way to step up to the power levels you are looking for. Obviously all this is based on the condition that your current motor combination is designed to handle 20+ lbs. of boost. You will be plenty satisfied with that performance (for a while anyway).
Since you are looking for some substantial power gains, here's one thought coming from a blower guy...Sell your Vortech S-trim (it's more than likely undersized for the 383 to start with) and purchase another Vortech blower that's going to make the boost you are looking for like a YS-i (I believe this is Vortech's large blower) or a F1-A Procharger as you are already set up for a blower. You already have the FMIC plumbed for a supercharger, you may need to go up in size with your injectors and maybe consider an alcohol injection kit. You didn't mention in your mod list if you have an upgraded rearend or any other suspension/chassis work, but if you haven't done so already, you are going to need to. Since you have been running a supercharger set-up, this just seems like an economical and natural way to step up to the power levels you are looking for. Obviously all this is based on the condition that your current motor combination is designed to handle 20+ lbs. of boost. You will be plenty satisfied with that performance (for a while anyway).
Last edited by Boosted_Z28; 01-26-2008 at 01:11 PM.
01-26-2008, 01:39 PM
#79
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: h-town, ct
Posts: 164
i think boosted is right on the money. stay with a blower setup, it will be more than enough to get you what you want, i was originally under the impression that you were starting out from scratch (that what i get for ASSuming ) but since you already are set up for it just get a bigger blower and make serious power
) but since you already are set up for it just get a bigger blower and make serious power
01-26-2008, 02:25 PM
#80
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,706
i think boosted is right on the money. stay with a blower setup, it will be more than enough to get you what you want, i was originally under the impression that you were starting out from scratch (that what i get for ASSuming ) but since you already are set up for it just get a bigger blower and make serious power
) but since you already are set up for it just get a bigger blower and make serious powerYeah, I would upgrade to a YSi blower, and go to town
01-26-2008, 03:04 PM
#81
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: IN
Posts: 3,225
First, I would sell the T-56 and go with a built auto. That alone will make mid to high 10's easy without a ton of power. Do that with maybe a slightly bigger blower like the T-Trim and max it out and theres your 10 second drag car.
Want to stay with the M6? You'll see bigger RWHP and you'll need a little more as well. I would say full drag suspension and either a mid sized Turbo, or T-Trim equivilant (D1SC for example) would get you there as thats about what most of us run with that setup.
As always you can have more power, but thats all you need to get to your time goals fairly easily. Some guys have even gone 9's with that setup. If you want more power you can always go to a Ysi or F1A, or even a larger Turbo, but traction will start being an issue at that point even with a drag setup for the track.
01-26-2008, 03:20 PM
#83
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 192
Thanks! That's the kind of info I was looking for. The reason I'm asking now is because I need to pull the motor as I did not modify the caps, they are still 2-bolt, and I now realize that I should have done this the first time. If I decide to go auto what would you suggest ? 4L60E? T350? T400? Glide? How about the stall? As for the FI I think I will stay with the blower and just go with a T-trim as all the brackets will interchange. I am just sort of figuring the Ysi uses different bracketry. The suspension is currently stock, but I am looking at how I plan to set it up for racing, other than the 9" that i am currently working on building.
Chas
Chas
01-26-2008, 03:29 PM
#84
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: IN
Posts: 3,225
I am not an auto guy, but I know lots of guys have had good luck with a big stall and the TH400. I know some other really powerfull guys running the power glides with success as well. Do some more research in the transmission forum, and you'll find all the specifics you'll need for that.
As for suspension, theres oodles to do. I would start by strenthening the frame with some subframe connecters. Springs and shocks are big helpers of traction as well. I have QA1 adjustable shocks with front and rear drag springs in mine, and I would reccomend the same. Upper and lower A-arms will help, along with a tubular K-member for clearance and weight. Aftermarket torque arm is also a good idea, as well as lower control arms. You might also want to consider poly or solid motor mounts and or different bushings when doing all this. Past that you're gonna need a cage (or at least roll bar) per the NHRA rules to run a 11.49 and faster so plan on that as well.
I think if you maxed out a T-Trim, with your setup, you'd be in a similar power range to me which again is about in average a little past where you would normally get traction on the street, however that auto will help that
As for suspension, theres oodles to do. I would start by strenthening the frame with some subframe connecters. Springs and shocks are big helpers of traction as well. I have QA1 adjustable shocks with front and rear drag springs in mine, and I would reccomend the same. Upper and lower A-arms will help, along with a tubular K-member for clearance and weight. Aftermarket torque arm is also a good idea, as well as lower control arms. You might also want to consider poly or solid motor mounts and or different bushings when doing all this. Past that you're gonna need a cage (or at least roll bar) per the NHRA rules to run a 11.49 and faster so plan on that as well.
I think if you maxed out a T-Trim, with your setup, you'd be in a similar power range to me which again is about in average a little past where you would normally get traction on the street, however that auto will help that
Thanks! That's the kind of info I was looking for. The reason I'm asking now is because I need to pull the motor as I did not modify the caps, they are still 2-bolt, and I now realize that I should have done this the first time. If I decide to go auto what would you suggest ? 4L60E? T350? T400? Glide? How about the stall? As for the FI I think I will stay with the blower and just go with a T-trim as all the brackets will interchange. I am just sort of figuring the Ysi uses different bracketry. The suspension is currently stock, but I am looking at how I plan to set it up for racing, other than the 9" that i am currently working on building.
Chas
Chas
01-26-2008, 03:40 PM
#85
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: IN
Posts: 3,225
Just FYI, if you went with a turbo, with a built auto with a big stall, you could expect even faster times as as mentioned before you will achieve max power sooner, and with the auto you can sit at the line and start to spool the turbo up. You won't need a huge turbo to do this, I would say somewhere along the lines of a 74mm turbo or bigger.
Just another thought for you to contenplate.
Just another thought for you to contenplate.
01-26-2008, 03:46 PM
#86
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: h-town, ct
Posts: 164
as far as auto's go, go with what you can get at a good price. a built 4l80e is damn near bullet proof but its a heavy bastard so you will gain strength but itll cost you hp by putting more weight on the drivetrain. 4l60e/700r4 seem to be a crap shoot, some have them at 5-700hp and others go through 7 trying to hold the power. CPT (sponser on here) seems to be able to make them last by what ive heard. then your have the turbo 350/400 which are historically known when built for being bulletproof but you lose overdrive which isnt a concern for a race car. a 4l80e is basically a turbo 400?? with overdrive. i personally have a 4l60e and plan on seeing what i can get out of it but considering your 6 speed id look around for turbo 400s and get it built to throw whatever at it. OR spend the money and build the 6 speed up and get a good clutch and see what happens
01-26-2008, 03:51 PM
#87
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: IN
Posts: 3,225
The downside is the M6 will be harder to make fast
01-26-2008, 04:02 PM
#88
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: h-town, ct
Posts: 164
you could also sell the t-56 setup and make some cash, it would probably more than pay for a turbo 400 and rebuild by what ive seen t-56 setups cost but its up to you. then you need the crossmember...blah bah. for drag racing a properly build auto really cant be beat and since you seem to serious about it, an auto is probably what id look in to but im a pansy since i dont like rowing the gears 
01-26-2008, 05:22 PM
#89
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 192
Auto is not an issue. Luckily one of my closest friends is the owner of the largest transmission shop in the state. As for the suspension, the car was wrecked when I got it, so the first thing installed after it came off the frame machine was subframe connectors. When I installed the drivetrain I replace the mounts with poly mounts. I was actually looking very hard at QA1's, springs, and LCA's. I hadn't really given alot of thought to the K-member or A-arms though. I also knew about the cage. That is where the decision was made to not drive on the street much (2 seater & crawling over side arms is not the same as it was when I was 16).
01-26-2008, 05:25 PM
#90
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: IN
Posts: 3,225
Auto is not an issue. Luckily one of my closest friends is the owner of the largest transmission shop in the state. As for the suspension, the car was wrecked when I got it, so the first thing installed after it came off the frame machine was subframe connectors. When I installed the drivetrain I replace the mounts with poly mounts. I was actually looking very hard at QA1's, springs, and LCA's. I hadn't really given alot of thought to the K-member or A-arms though. I also knew about the cage. That is where the decision was made to not drive on the street much (2 seater & crawling over side arms is not the same as it was when I was 16).