You are probably going to want to get rid of those 4.10 gears as well.

 

I'm thinking it's going to be ok to get the project running... Once I swap in the auto trans then I'll put a new gear set in.

 

Yeah. My gearset when I first put Jon's turbo kit on was 4.10's. Murdered every car I ran with that setup. Now I have 3.55's so death comes even more quickly to them

 

Looks like you have a lot of the details being figured out. Just another piece of info. I'm running a cloyes 3145 double roller timing chain with the EFI connection conversion without issues. I really like the whole system and how it integrated cleanly with the rest of the car.

 

Thanks for the info

However my good friend (he and I will be doing most of the work... he's got a TT LT1 caprice himself) has convinced me to go with the Fast Xfi. Yeah it costs more but according to him it's much better since it runs on wideband O2 (compared to stock narrowbands) adjusts the A/F mixture even at WOT, has the ability to tune 'live' without needing to buy extra software, and is extremely user friendly. Even has integrated boost controller and other cool features like I can add a touchscreen display and use it to tune my car He has the old Fast Efi setup in his impala and swears by it. He said the EFI Connection conversion is good but FAST Xfi is better.

 

Sounds intriguing . Got a link for that setup?

 

I'm assuming you mean of my friend's car?

Here's his build from impalassforum:

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=249108


If you mean of the FAST setup then you can find all the info online at Fuel air spark technology's website

 

I just have another question about the ARP studs...

So the guy who sold me the shortblock also gave me this head stud kit he had to go with it http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-4301/

He used them though to install the heads on the block once, but never ran the motor... Would it be ok to use these? Or should I buy new hardware? Like I said they were torqued down to spec just to bolt the heads to the block but motor was never ran. They have been coated with ARP thread sealer. What do you guys think? Ok to re-use?

 

I would buy new.

 

Those studs are reusable. Seal them up according to ARP's instructions and don't think twice about it.

 

arp hardware is re-usable... they arent stretch bolts like factory. re use the studs... I did in my SS!! and im running 18psi and felpro 1074's!

 

Ok guys I just had another question regarding the cam and valvetrain components for this setup...

So I am going to be running a Bauer custom cam the specs are:

22X/23X and 379/375 lobe lift. (114 lsa)

I managed to reach Bret and he recommended I go with 1.52 rockers. I'm just trying to understand why I wouldn't just go with 1.6 rockers instead since with 1.52 I get about .575" lift at the valve, but with 1.6 rockers I get just over .600" lift? My heads are CNC ported and flow well to 650 lift. Is there something else I need to consider??

I have even seen some forced induction builds where they used a comp pro mag 1.6 on the intake and a 1.5 on the exhaust... I mean he is the pro and he designed the cam for this setup so if he says 1.52 then I should probably just go with 1.52...

Just wanted to hear your opinions

 

Only thing that comes to mind is he is worried about piston to valve clearance.

 

Actually was digging through some emails we exchanged before I get ready to order the valvetrain parts... according to him running 1.52's will limit the lift allowing for enough seated pressure from the springs to better control the valves under boost. Does it make sense? again I'm sure he knows best I just had never seen anyone go to 1.52 rockers on other forced induction builds is all... It seemed counter-productive to me when going with higher lift custom cam and ported heads but it goes to show what do I know

 

Sounds like you need a double spring instead of the beehives.