Hahaha.. Yeah. Something I'm good at. I could do it in my sleep, methinks. Ever since I got a 'real' T56 input shaft to align the clutch, it's gone much easier. I'm more worried about rounding the corners off my flywheel and Flexplate bolts than any other aspect of the swaps.

I had the TH350 on with the turbo for a few weeks. Loved the constant power delivery but taking off from a stop was bad for the ego with that 2800 stall Vigilante. No matter how a brake stalled it, it never got into even a single pound of boost. Of course from a roll it was the complete opposite. Like a jet taking off at the airport, the power just swells and never lets up.

Have you had any time to work on your car Geoff? Hope so. I have my exhaust all apart now, rewelding the section from the down pipe back to the Borla, to get some ground clearance. I ovalized a section of 3" so that the flattened section fits up next to the raised bodypanel, hopefully making the transmission crossmember the lowest part of the car instead of my exhaust pipe.

 

Well, the weather forecast here is looking good for this weekend so I'll finally be able to pull off the Canfield heads and install these TFS heads and the ported intake. I'm also replacing the bronze gear with the composite gear on the oil pump drive. Can't wait to see how she runs As it was with the stock Canfield heads and stock intake, I took a GT500 this past week in a 3rd and 4th gear contest on the highway.

 

Nice Dave!

LLoyd is shipping back my AFR227's (he just milled them for me) and he is also sending back a fully ported LT4 intake.

Jon

 

Can't wait to see how yours and Jasons cars run! I'm at mid point in my installation. Just took a break for a bite to eat. Started at a little after 12 noon today. Beautiful weather!!!

 

Got the heads on but man, what a b*tch that steam pipe can be! I spent 45 minutes trying to get those banjo bolts started. Lol... I bought some new intake bolts thinking that 1" were fine but only 'some' of them are. I really need 1.5" it appears. I had to stop before complete due to some 'honeydews' that needed to be done. Resuming tomorrow...

 

Awesome Dave!

I am ditching the banjo bolts and using 6AN fittings and braided hose.

 

Subscribed to this one!

 

Good Idea! Wish I'd thought of that first.
More progress on it today but not a lot. I had to interrupt the effort to take my wife to physical therapy and then drive to a restaurant. When I got back I went out there again but more frustration in getting the header bolts lined up. If I had a friend out there to help it wouldn't take so long but I end up getting under the car, the on the side, then under it again then on the side,... dozens of times trying to get stuff lined up. Sooo frustrating (but good for my abdominal muscles, hehehe).
Done:
1. Heads installed and torqued in three steps(23,46,70ftlbs)
2. Intake installed and torqued in two steps(71 inch/lbs, 35 ftlbs)
3. Drivers side hotside on.
4. Drivers side plugs gapped and installed.

To go:
1. Passenger side hotside
2. Passenger plugs
3. Wiring harness for Injectors/sensors
4. Hook exhaust system back up.
5. change oil/filter
6. Set lifter preloads.
7. Install LTCC ignition
8. Fire her up!

 

How much power are you hoping to pick up with these and a new tune?

Edit: Also, I see you are running a stock TB according to your build page. Would going to a 52 or 58 mm TB help out on your set-up?

 

In truth, I don't know how much. Lloyd said it would help everywhere thru the power band though so that's good enough for me. The stock LT1 heads I started with were ported but additionally still had the small cc combustion chambers which my pistons were spec'd for. That meant I still had a 'decent' amount of torque w/o boost. But, those heads were 'pushing water' as they say at 12 psi and above. So, I opted for the thicker decks of the Canfields (plus they were at a good price). But... I believe they had 64cc chambers because right off the bat, my torque at off idle till boost, really was noticable by the highly calibrated butt-o-meter (okay, not exactly a scientific device but discernable). Plus, the guy I bought them from said they were ported. Well, when I got them, they looked 'as cast' to me. The valve guides weren't elipsed either so I think I got what I paid for ...Serves me right, lol..
That's why I went for the real deal with these TFS heads. The chambers still are a tad too big at 61cc, even after milling, but at least they should breath better all around.

Yes, stock TB. I had a 58mm BBK way back in 2000 and I liked the throttle response but from reading, I found that guys were getting plenty of power out of stock TB's so I sold it. I often wonder with the Turbo if the bigger TB would show any improvements. The thing that I have to remind myself of though is that I'm havnig trouble (at the strip) of getting what I already have to the ground. I've got to start working on aspects of the suspension to get that addressed. Right now, I either bog or spin at the line and then DEFINITELY spin at that top of 1st and 2nd with my current 275 Nitto DR's.

Some ET streets would help once I get going but off the line may still be an issue. I have yet to turn a 60' better than a 2.x with this setup. I have a TH350 transmission I will reinstall later this Spring. Just waiting to get the TC restalled (4000 rpm) at Precision Industries.

Thanks,

 

Awesome man, thanks for the good response. I take it you are moving the car towards track only with the TH350?

 

Some of my friends think I'm crazy but I don't mind swapping the transmissions back and forth a couple of times a year. The TH350 is definitely for track mainly but I don't mind driving 30 some odd miles each way with it. The T56 is for the long hauls of an hour or more.

The last time I had the TH350 with the 2800 stall, it was just awesome once you were up into boost. Just unrelenting pulling, lol... but off the line, no PSI at all. Quite lethargic. I could footbrake it all I wanted. Not one iota of 1 psi appeared on the boost gauge. After telling the guys at Precision Industries about my car and goals they recommended at least a 3,800 stall so I'm going with the 4K.

 

After finishing the install of the TFS heads and the ported intake, I took the car for a test drive. After it warmed up, I tried to get into a little boost. The Wide band says I'm running lean. Previously, with the prior heads, any time I gave her gas, even moderate gas, the WB would show 13.x and 11.x into heavy boost.

I went back to the house, fired up the 'Torque app' on my droid to see the readings/SES codes and saw... the farking MAF sensor was unhooked. Doh! So I hooked it up and took her for another drive. Ahh.. MUCH better.

After going about 15 miles round trip, I pulled back into my driveway and got out of the car, leaving it running, as I cleared my ramps out of the way so I could park. After moving them, I turned back to the car and started walking. Then, I noticed something shiny under the car. The sunlight was reflecting off some liquid that was dripping from the back of the motor. Phock.. that's great.

So, I pull her up, kill the motor and start wiping my hands on the back of heads, assuming the banjo bolts were not sealing the steam tube. I found some coolant so I got out the ol' ratcheting 15mm combo wrench and gave them a try. Sure enough, both were not fully tightened. So, I felt good that I'd fix allllll the problems.

I then pull her back up on the ramps to get under the car and wipe off all the coolant drops. What the?? Oil? What is oil doing dripping down? So, back up to the top I go, feeling the back of the valve covers (Canton's) thinking they might not be tight...Hmmm... nope. Next, I start her up and get under the car to watch and see if I can see from where the oil is eminating. It takes about a minute, cause it's just idling, for a drip to show just above the oil filter mount. Puzzled, I reach up to the valve covers again, feeling around. Where the hell is it.... then an old old memory pops into my head. "The back of the intake manifold, where the silicone seal is..". Ah crap.... But I put a big bead of silicone on that!!!

Well phooey, there's nothing to do but pop off the intake and look. Fortunately, I had a second set of intake gaskets so it wasn't that big of a deal. What appears as a negative though turned out to be a good thing.... I disconnected all the connectors, tubes and fuel lines, etc, then pulled out the 8 bolts, then with a little prying on the corner of the intake, off she came. Odd.... the silicone looks to be fine. Nice and thick.... But then I look at the ports on the heads,.. why do they have oil in them? I look at the intake gaskets and see the bottom half of them look oil soaked and permeated with oil. This means that oil was seeping in from the intake valley and being drawn into the ports during vacuum and probably blown out of during boost. I decided to wipe down the heads and ports with brake cleaner soaked rags, then, after cleaning the old silicone sealer off, to put a light film of silicone sealer around the ports as well as the end rails on the intake. After reinstalling and torque things down and reconnecting everything, I took another test drive. Farking awesome! Runs like a champ and no leaking of anything!

 

That won't last.

 

What will?