What can be done to get the 6 speed and the 12 bolt to live a "long" life in a FI powered car.

How strong is the 12 bolt and what kind of power will it take?
same with the 6 Speed.

 

I had no problems with a stock T56, Street Twin, 12-bolt with an Eaton posi and 10" slicks with ~800rwhp. I wouldn't expect it to last forever though, especially if there is a lot of strip use. One the street, it will just spin and limit the load. On a prepped surface, if it hooks there is tremendous amount of stress with that much hp and a heavy car. Something will break, eventually. A bullet proof setup is possible, but very expensive and not street friendly (a spool, G-force T-56, etc.). I'd say use it and see what and when it breaks. If you stay away from the strip, no problem. Avoiding clutch dumps will help at the track, but again, if it hooks I think it's only a matter of time.

Don't forget a good driveshaft!

Rich

 

Any recomendations here?

-Scott.

 

The standard recommendation is Denny's "Nitrous Ready". A very good CM shaft but the last few times we ordered from Denny's the service wasn't too great, and they are even local to us!

We have switched to http://www.dynotechengineering.com/. Dynotech's chrome molly shaft is comparable in price and specs to the NR from Denny's and they ship in about 24h! Outstanding service from them. You want the 3.5" shaft for this kind of application, not the 3.0"

Rich

 

Thank you Rich, I was going to mention Denny's but they were really the only ones I have heard of and was wondering about others.

-Scott.

 

Best "affordable" arrangement for a stick car:

9" ford with Strange Pro Nodular Center and aftermarket bearing support

D&D T56 with Viper output shaft option- you need the bigger splines for sure-GM splines tend to twist and screw up the internal splines in the GM slip yokes. Chrysler yoke solves this

Dennys Nitrous ready DS- This power will turn an LS1 aluminum DS into an icecream cone looking thing.

Street Twin clutch - If you put a milder clutch in it it will be nicer on the rest of the drivetrain. You may have to swap clutch disks pretty often however.

Torque Arm - You may need an aftermarket TA- however if you can live with a stock TA it is easier on the Ring & Pinion- The OEM TA is pretty flimsy and kinda absorbs a bunch of initial shock during a clutch dump - my OEM arm lived for a while - then looked like a pretzle

 

Anyone try slipping the street twin instead of dumping?