I have started the quest on gathering all the right parts for my 383 LT1. I will be running a D1SC and want to make 550-600RWHP. What parts are required, what tips or tricks, or what advice can you give that will aide in building a streetable and dependable Supercharged LT1.

I know I will need a forged bottom end, good heads, etc.. I think Compstar will be used for my bottom end. I want to spend the money once and build my car to last and be able to drive it frequently with out it breaking something all the time.

Thanks!

 

Forged Internals and a GOOD tune.

 

Exactly... lots of fuel and conservative timing

 

You need to have a solid motor, some tuning software, a wideband O2 sensor(mounted in the car all the time), and a good knowledge of tuning. Even dynotunes will need to be tweaked as the temperature, humidity and density altitude change. The AF ratio and timing are critical in blower motors.

 

Like stated above, conservative timing for sure! I'm currently not running anything above 20deg or so in the boost and it's making tons of power. Running even less in the lower rpm ranges at WOT in the boost. You don't need tons of timing to make good power. Don't want A/F's above 12.0:1 in the boost. Keep them in the 11:1 range. You definitly want some sort of intercooling. A good large FMIC does wonders. Some run only water/methanol injection, but it requires extra time spent on tuning and it can get tricky if you don't know whats going on. I now run both meth and a FMIC. Keep your CR close to 9:1 if you can. Less is better, but 9:1 is safe also and can be had with a ported LT1 head and the right pistons. Make sure your ring gaps are correct for a power adder. Probably should run them in the high .020's. Do some research here. Some run them in the low .030's. Better to be a little too big then too tight. The 383 is gonna want a lot of fuel. Do it right the 1st time and plan to go faster. 60# injectors with twin parallel in tank 255 pumps. Like stated above also, a mail order tune will only get you so far. You need to tune yourself on a dyno or have someone do it for you. Don't run a mail order tune on the street until you at least know what its doing on a dyno or while using your own tuning and wideband software. Don't use SRP pistons. You want JE blower pistons or another brand made of the same type of material. Just can't remember what material the JE's are made from. That material will hold up better to detonation if you come across it.

Ken R.

 

I have a good feel for the tuning, forged internals, fuel system, and the "typical" parts. What about pulleys, dampners, 8rib vs. 12rib, keyed or big block hubs, and parts along this line that cause all the gremlins to come out. I want to make sure that I put the right parts on and do the "protective measures " from the start and not get stranded every time I take it out.

I can't remember which member it was, but someone here said they drove several hours to a shootout, ran 9's and then drove home. That is what I want to accomplish!

 

That would be INTMD8. Look in the sticky section to set what people have for setups...it's pretty detailed. Some get away w/ 8 rib and SDCE tensioner others go 12 rib. Def get a BB hub.

 

Best way = race gas .... but thats not practical.

My opinion, overbuild and under power it. Meaning build it for 1000rwhp, and run it at 600rwhp.

First, if you want long term reliability, build as much motor as you can afford so you can run less boost and make the same power. Downside to a blower setup is you can't easily turn it down, like I can with my turbo. I'll be able to have 450rwhp or 700rwhp, on the fly, any time of the day. on low boost(6lbs) with 18 degrees timing and e85, I should be able to put 50,000 miles on the motor and not hurt it, and I run my cars hard with a lot of racing.

Doing it right the first time is NOT cheap and you will still break parts if you truely drive it that much.

I'm going the e85 route, which requires a HUGE fuel system, but at $2.55 per gallon and 104ish octane with great detonation resistance I can't pass it up. I plan on driving the car daily from early March until probably mid November next year, rain and all, and the car SHOULD go in the 9's without much problem.

 

I think E85 is a great choice for a street or street/strip blower car, if it's available, so don't get me wrong. But as I am sure you have figured out the cost/gallon is misleading. To get the same mixture, you need to consider that the stoichiometric ratio for E85 is ~9.7:1. This means that you need 14.7-9.7/9.7 = 41% more fuel to get the same mixture. At $2.55/g the equivalent volume of E85 to gas would cost ~$3.60.

Rich

 

Yes I do know that, at part throttle you can run a little leaner, most seem to be in the 30% more fuel range , and right at 42% at wot. 2.55/gallon here vs the 3.09 for 91 pump, so without needing meth and the extra safety of the e85 I think it'll pay for itself in my case.

 

Yeah, to E85. I am very curious how it works. I bet it will make a ton of power. Are you going to use an IC? I really don't think it will be needed. As you may know, I run mine at 22psi on 100 octane with water/meth injection and no IC. I think it would make more power with an IC, but I don't want to bother with it. Alcohol race setups run huge boost with high compression and no IC.

How is yours going to be set up?

Rich

 

PM coming your way so I don't hijack this thread.

 

Don't drive it?

 

Abstinence is the best policy.

 

So does any one here drive their supercharged LT1 reguarly and have it stay together. I am not looking to build a full out drag car, but I want to take it to the track occasionally, run 10's and be able to drive it 25mins to work and be confident that I will make it there and back. Is this even possible?